Hot beef, cold beer. The ethos of the Australian burger brand Huxtaburger grew from this simple premise to a thriving Melbourne chain with four branches, and counting.
Chef Daniel Wilson was enjoying a post-service drink with a few mates at Huxtable, his Melbourne restaurant, when it struck them that what they really wanted was a great burger at an affordable price. But, being chefs, they were picky, and the burger joint they envisaged had to have " a restaurant mindset".
“We started with five burgers, beef only – no chicken, no fish, no vegetarian,” Wilson says. The menu has since expanded, but the beef patty remains at the heart of what Huxtaburger is about. “Some purists argue that a burger must contain a beef patty and that all the rest are actually sandwiches.”
Now, however, lobster burger with wasabi and miso mayo; grilled ham and pineapple burger with chipotle mayo; and tonkatsu burger with apple and fennel slaw share space with beef on the evolved Huxtaburger menu.
But whatever the main ingredient is, the Huxtaburgers share one common theme: they’re carefully constructed, with bun, filling and condiments that work together.
One of the secrets to a succulent burger, Wilson says, is to brush the inside of the bun with clarified butter and toast the bun. And don’t overlook condiments. “Ketchup and mustard are as important to a burger as the meat or the bun, in terms of the punchy flavours they add,” Wilson says.
Joe Macken of Jo’Burger in Dublin goes for beef when he’s ordering a burger, but likes to add a bit of spice. “There’s a huge trend for haute McDs at the moment, but I still prefer something with more kick to make a burger great.
“We’re open eight years in Rathmines this month and I still pick a Zondi burger (Thai green curry mayo with chilli and coriander) every time. Even though we sell loads of chicken, veggie, vegan and lamb burgers, beef is still my choice and it is the most popular,” he says.
Beef is also a firm favourite with Brendan O’Connor who runs BBQ Joe’s mobile barbecue and smoke pit at festivals and private events all over Ireland. “My favourite is the Wagu cross burger from Michael Twomey in Macroom, topped with lobster, rocket and truffle aioli, crispy onion and Reblochon cheese.
To make the best job of grilling or barbecuing burgers, O’Connor has the following suggestions: “If you’re cooking outdoors, grilling over really good quality lump wood charcoal is my number one tip. Do not use easy-light charcoals as these are treated with chemicals and accelerants that taint the flavour of your food.
“Another tip for grilling a burger is that if you are cooking a nice thick handmade one, press down a little on the centre of the burger and create a slight indentation on both sides and in the centre of the burger. As the burger cooks, the centre will cook as evenly as the edges and you’ll get much better and more even cooking results, instead of a burger that’s burnt on the outside and still pink on the inside.
To experience authentic barbecue food, O’Connor suggests visiting Meatopia in London (September 19th-20th) or the Big Grill BBQ and Craft Beer Festival which returns to Herbert Park, Dublin on August 13th-16th and will feature an international low ‘n’ slow competition as well as other styles of grilling and barbecuing.
Whether you're in the classic beef camp, or like to mix it up a bit, you'll find inspiration for burgers, and a variety of buns, sauces and sides, in The Huxtaburger Book (out this week from Hardie Grant Books, £16.99).
