I’ve seen my first pumpkin of the season. It was lounging around one of our vegetable supplier’s fields. Because of its size it stopped me in my tracks. We’re so used to walking among vegetables that are small that we forget sometimes that they can grow to immense sizes and be shocking.

I can see why they’re associated with Halloween. Catch one with corner of your eye and you might mistake it for something more sinister in your garden, what with its big swelling bulge spreading itself out over your front lawn. Day of the Triffids would have been far more sinister with man-eating pumpkins!

A lot of people avoid eating pumpkins because the they’re hard work. This is not altogether true. They have a large empty central cavity which seems only good for candles. However, in spite of this, pumpkins have a beautiful earthy flavour.

They are also extremely seasonal and are at their best now. A pumpkin purée is a nice simple accompaniment to a piece of grilled fish. Just place some cubed pumpkin in milk and cream and simmer until soft. Strain and then blend with enough of the liquid to make a luscious purée. Don’t forget to sieve and season it. There’s nothing worse than a lumpy purée!

Heavenly delight

Pumpkin soup is another heavenly delight and can be made in advance on Sunday for the week ahead. Sweat off some onions and garlic with rosemary and thyme in a little butter and oil. Add in a large quantity of chopped pumpkin, season liberally with sea salt and cover with a good vegetable stock. Simmer the lot until soft and then blend and sieve. Add in a little cream if desired and warm thoroughly. Pack it into five containers and you have your soup for the working week.

I’d freeze three of them and take them out the night before needed as the soup may turn after three days. A nice accompaniment for your soup is toasted pumpkin seeds to sprinkle on top. Pop them in the oven with a little oil and toast until crispy.