Around the corner from Leila’s Shop is designer Sir Terence Conran’s The Albion restaurant, where Saturday mornings are all about these freshly baked Marmite rolls. Marmite’s intoxicatingly savoury dark paste is the key ingredient to these pinwheel breakfast rolls. Kept moist and pillow-like from the addition of mashed potatoes and topped with a generous sprinkle of mature cheddar cheese, they are a real treat. Preheat oven to 200 degrees/gas mark 6. Cook the potatoes in salted water and drain, reserving two tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Mash the potatoes very well or press through a fine sieve into a basin, then cover and keep warm. Cream the yeast in a bowl with the reserved tepid potato liquid and a spoonful of the sugar and mix well as it froths up.

Sift the flour into a mixing bowl with a teaspoon of salt and rub in the butter. Make a well in the centre and add the rest of the sugar and mashed potatoes, mixing well.

Add the tepid milk and 75ml water to the yeast liquid, mix and add to the mixing bowl, then beat in the beaten egg. Knead very well, cover and leave in a warm place for about an hour, until doubled in size.

In a small bowl, mix together the butter and Marmite until combined.

Spread the Marmite and butter mixture evenly over the surface, leaving a 1cm gap at the edges. Sprinkle over two-thirds of the grated cheddar and roll away from you to create a long sausage shape. Cut into 18 slices and place on a tray lined with parchment paper, cut side up, with at least 3cm between each roll. Loosely cover with cling film and leave to prove for another 30 minutes. Brush with the beaten egg, sprinkle the remaining cheddar on top and bake for 15 minutes until risen and golden.