As Bastille Day approaches, today we take a brief look at French wine. While many wine critics enjoy poking fun at French wine, it remains the world leader in just about every category, producing every style of wine from sparkling through to fortified. Only Italy, and possibly Spain, produce as much wine, and such a diverse range, using indigenous grape varieties, from the very cheapest to the most expensive. France is also one of the largest producers, second only to Italy, with 43.9 million hectolitres in 2020.
This was supposed to be an article about the new France. Assuming we know all there is to know about Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Sancerre, Muscadet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the other big names of France, I promised the editor I would look at “new France”, the more recently rediscovered regions, of which there are plenty.
My plans went a little awry when we had my mother-in-law around for a midweek dinner; I pushed the boat out a little, opening up two well-known French classics that were so good I had to write about them. Muscadet and Bourgogne Rouge are not generally names to get the label readers excited, but these were both made by producers at the top of their game. Sadly they weren’t cheap but they were worth it, as were we.
Muscadet has been going through a revolution in recent years. Sub-regions such as Clisson have been established, ambitious producers now bottle single vineyard wines, based on specific terroirs. Some of the wines are amazingly good. You can buy Bourgogne Rouge, or red Burgundy, for as little as €12 from the multiples. However, the best estates in the region produce excellent wines that are in a different class.
A few days later I came across another €20-plus wine that made me sit up. It was from the Roussillon, a region often lumped in with the Languedoc. The two together form the largest vineyard area in the world. However, the Roussillon does have its own Catalan identity. Back from the coast, the vines cling to bare craggy slopes. Historically the region was famous for fortified wines, but in recent years, some producers have started to make spectacularly good white and red wines. Roc des Anges, up the arid Agly valley, is one of the best producers in the region.
Then I came across a less expensive white from the southwest. This vast region is home to many undiscovered gems, often at great prices, and often using their own local grape varieties. With 15,000 hectares under vine, and production of 100 million bottles, the Côtes de Gascogne is the largest white wine vin de pays in France.
Domaine de Luzanet 2019, Côtes de Gascogne
11.5%, €13
Ripe, textured exotic fruits with just enough zing to provide balance, and a nicely rounded finish. Drink well-chilled on its own or with Thai prawns.
From Whelehan's Wines, Loughlinstown, whelehanswines.ie
Domaine Le Roc des Anges 2017, Segna de Cor, Côtes du Roussillon
13.5%, €22.95
Waves of pure cassis and ripe dark fruits, with a wonderful underlying freshness and fine tannins on the finish. A joy to drink. Try it alongside grilled red meats, or barbecued aubergines and mushrooms.
From jnwine.com
Les Pierres Blanches 2019, Gneiss, Domaine Luneau-Papin, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
13%, €25
This is a special wine that takes Muscadet to a whole new level. Delicious textured ripe fruits with a very fine mouth-watering acidity. Serve with seared scallops with butter and lemon, or grilled brill with a herby sauce.
From Whelehan's Wines, Loughlinstown, whelehanswines.ie
Bourgogne Rouge 2018, Sylvan Pataille
13.5%, €31
Ethereal fragrant dark cherries on nose and palate, silky and elegant with a satisfying grip on the finish. With a plainly roasted chicken, or cheesy stuffed courgettes.
From 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Baggot Street Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; stationtostationwine.ie; Matson's, Grange, Bandon and Youghal, matsonswinesandbeer.com
