It is not difficult to get emotional about the state of food in our country. I am talking specifically about our native fishing industries and the hardship they endure due to successive governments making deals in Europe that have left coastal communities bereft of any hope. The recent documentary Atlantic, narrated by the illustrious Brendan Gleeson, showed us how governments have never really valued the fishing industry in Ireland. Yet, as a people, we never really supported the fishing industry either.

Most of our fish goes to France and Spain, because they want it. We really need to eat more of our own fish and, to do so, we need to pay attention to where fish comes from by looking more closely at the packaging and making sure it supports Irish jobs.

January is a great month for shellfish. So much of it can be fetched at markets and local fishmongers, including mussels and clams, oysters and scallops, the latter of which I love eating raw.

Recently, in the two-Michelin-star restaurant Noma, in Copenhagen, I tasted a raw scallop freshly shucked from its shell. It was sliced thinly and gently seasoned with some beautiful oil, sea salt and vinegar that was made in-house. Can you imagine what asparagus vinegar tastes like? Aged for six to eight months? Unbelievable.

Noma’s oyster was lightly poached and served with samphire powder and a myriad of other garnishes that were so small I wondered if tiny elf hands had placed them on top.

Another stellar shellfish to try in January is the razor clam. Cooking razor clams is easy and quick.

Fry off some onion until translucent and pour in a large glass of white wine. When it comes to the boil, lay the clams down in the liquid and cook until they open. Finish with chopped parsley or lovage.