Try the simple, ancient art of pickling

Seasonal suppers: Between now and the end of autumn, preserve a few items of nature’s bounty

Minted mackerel and mushroom escabeche. Photograph:  Getty Images
Minted mackerel and mushroom escabeche. Photograph: Getty Images

In a world of freezers and tinned goods, it’s hard to remember that at one point if you wanted something out of season, you would have to make it yourself. But it’s not all doom and gloom. Preservation now opens itself to a world of different flavours and textures.

Everyone should know how to pickle. It doesn’t matter if you can pick up a courgette or a cucumber in December, it’s nice to be able to open your fridge and encounter your own pickles. As we return to the season of plenty, we should remember the season scarcity. Between now and the end of autumn, I would encourage you to pickle or preserve a few items of nature’s bounty. Even if you pod your own peas and freeze them – it all counts!

Pickling fish

Pickling fish is an ancient practice and something we have done in Ireland for centuries. This practice was likely introduced by the viking settlers and then migranted into the medieval monasteries. Salted ling and herring are staples of many European coastal communities. In Spain the practice of pickling fish is called escabeche (though it’s not confined to fish). Fish is fried and then submerged in a vinegar and wine solution. The fish should keep for at least two weeks, if not longer, depending on the acidity of the solution. Though it’s also beautiful freshly made.

To make your own mackerel escabeche, fry some sliced red onion in a little oil. Add a nice julienne of carrots (matchsticks) and sweat for a few minutes. Pour in 500ml white wine, 500ml white wine vinegar and 500ml water. Add a pinch of saffron and salt, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Pan fry four to six fillets of mackerel on their skin side until the skin is crispy. Lay the fillets in a tray and pour over the pickling liquid. Before serving, add in some chopped parsley. Enjoy.