A covering of fat will keep your pork moist and succulent, writes Hugo Arnold.
I like pork to have large, glistening lumps of creamy fat on the outside, and a good marbling running through the meat. With Parma or pata negra hams, the fat melts in the mouth when it is sliced rice-paper thin.
All pork should have fat, however, for fat contributes to flavour and succulence, both crucial characteristics of good pork. Look for rich texture in the meat, which should be pink rather than a pale colour, and it should smell sweet, whether it is loin or hock.
This most intelligent of farm animals has been much abused in our drive for agricultural efficiency. But we have finally realised the error of our ways and good pork is available once again.
So, where and what to buy? Steer clear of mass-produced pork, for the pig's sake as well as yours. Don't be blindly led by the terms free-range, organic and naturally-reared. There are good and bad producers in each category. Ask questions, and taste if possible. Farmers' markets are good hunting grounds.
POACHED BELLY OF PORK WITH SPICES, GREENS AND WASABI
Japanese food is not all about tiny morsels of raw or lightly poached fish, some of the cooking is decidedly robust. This recipe is a version of a winter-warming dish eaten in Tokyo late last year.
1kg belly of pork cut into eight pieces
soy sauce
300ml dry sherry
1 chilli
4 star anise
2 sticks lemon grass, lightly bashed
4cm piece of ginger, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped (no need to peel)
1kg spring greens or Chinese cabbage, trimmed
wasabi paste
Place the pork in a saucepan of cold water. Bring this gently bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain, rinsing the meat well. Return the meat to the washed out saucepan and add 400ml of soy sauce, the sherry, chilli, star anise, lemon grass, ginger, garlic and 200ml of water. Bring to the boil, gently - if you heat the meat up too fast it will toughen - and simmer for one and a half hours, or until the meat is tender. Blanch the spring greens in boiling salted water until they are tender. This will take about five minutes. Drain and arrange the greens in four bowls. Spoon a little of the liquor from the meat over the greens, place the meat on top and serve with the wasabi and soy sauce to accompany. Serves 4.
LOIN OF PORK WITH FENNEL
1 loin of pork weighing about 1.5kg (boned)
75g butter
2 bay leaves
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 tsp fennel seeds
Heat the butter in a casserole and gently brown the meat all over. Add bay leaves, onion, fennel seeds and pour in 600ml of water. Put on the lid, but leave a small gap. Lower the heat and allow the pork to simmer for two hours, turning occasionally. By this time the liquid will have reduced substantially. Remove the meat and allow it to rest in a warm place. Reduce the liquid to give a nut brown colour, then add a glass of water and scrape up all the residue. Simmer for a further five minutes. Strain through a sieve and serve with the thickly sliced meat. Serves 6.