CONNOISSEUR: There's plenty of other fish in the sea, writes Hugo Arnold
CREDIT-CRUNCH-BUSTING initiatives surround us. With supermarket price wars leading the field, it is easy to pass on some of the more obvious cash-saving ways that nature supplies us with. For all the black sole, halibut and tuna spread before us, there are plenty of other fish on offer that offer superb eating for a fraction of the price of their more expensive cousins.
Regular readers of this column will be well aware of my fondness for the excellent and versatile mackerel but this inexpensive and abundant fish is not alone. While scallops, monkfish and brill might sit at the top of many piscine-focused cook's list of preferred choices, grey mullet, whiting, coley and gurnard are all there for the taking, too.
These less noble fish may need a slightly more thought-through approach, but they make for fine eating. Grey mullet, for example, can be almost as good as sea bass. Its reputation is the fault not of the fish, but of those fishing who scoop up specimens in muddy estuaries where, being a so-called bottom feeder, it can taste of just that. Fished further out however, and the firm white flesh becomes decidedly sea-bass-like in both texture and flavour. Given our inability in this country to legally buy Irish sea bass, this makes grey mullet rather more enticing.
Rock turbot, otherwise known as wolf or catfish, is another species too often overlooked. With flesh similar in texture to black sole, it performs really well when steamed. Season with Asian flavours and serve with pak choi or alternatively douse in a garlic and herb-rich salsa verde for a more European treatment.
Coley, otherwise know as pollack, is often marked down in both consumers' and fishmongers' minds because of its off-white colouring. It is true that light-brown food, particularly fish, is not to everyone's liking but, if anything, this sets a challenge for the cook. And it is one that is being taken up with some gusto by chefs in the UK, where pollack is suddenly a fish to be seen eating. Try using it in any recipe for cod or haddock.
You can buy pollack, or ling as it is otherwise known, in the English market in Cork where it is salted in the way that cod is in the north of Spain. This treatment beefs up the original fish, giving it a firm, chewy texture which works equally well with cream or tomatoes. Soak well in several changes of cold water and you have a real delicacy on your hands.
Whiting is a member of the cod family and although it has a similar texture, its flavour is somewhat lacking. However, cod itself is not exactly brimming with flavour. Best to treat roughly: deep-fry or grill and don't hold back on the flavouring, robust and full being the order of the day.
Gurnard has become a favourite fish in the past few months. Normally dismissed because it is bony, the taste really depends on its treatment. These fish grow quite large so a fillet is ample to feed one. Like all fish, roasting on the bone is preferable for a sweet and juicy result. Gurnard fillets are well-worth seeking out. Treat with robust techniques such as pan-fried gurnard with garlic butter, for example, or floured, fried and served with thin, crispy slices of crispy bacon.
If you are a regular shopper at a good fishmonger, try asking for monkfish cheeks. These succulent, sweet-tasting nuggets are similar to the "oysters" or "golden nuggets" found under the legs of chickens. All the flavour, but delivered in bite-sized portions. I say regular shopper because my own fishmonger, Richie, groans when I ask. A dab hand with a knife as he is, delivering monkfish cheeks for eight is a tough job. Maybe credit-crunch busting needs to be restricted to two at a time.