Reeks Ridge, in Co Kerry, offers a wonderful outing for fit, experienced walkers, writes John G O'Dwyer
OUR NEAREST neighbours take considerable pride in having one. This must-have national accessory is nothing less than a knife-edge mountain ridge. Not so challenging as to form an exclusive playground for rock jocks, this arete must, nevertheless, possess sufficient knee-knocking qualities to make its completion a sought-after accolade for hillwalkers.
Wales possesses the ideal: the sublimely pinnacled and memorable Crib Goch ridge, on Snowdon. Scotland’s answer is the Aonach Eagach of Glencoe – an unforgettable scramble, but perhaps a bit too demanding for most walkers. Not to be outdone, English folk have acclaimed Striding Edge, on Helvellyn, as their ultimate adrenalin-filled challenge. In reality, this admittedly memorable route offers little in terms of true thigh-quivering qualities, but I wouldn’t mention that too loudly in a Cumbrian pub.
You see, what English walkers really aspire to is an unashamedly macho mountain ridge with a challenging crux. And so far they haven’t faced the inconvenient reality that there isn’t one within their borders. We’ve got one, though. It’s discreetly tucked away in a corner of the Kingdom. Modest by nature, Kerry people don’t mention its existence very often, which is a pity, for the Reeks Ridge offers a wonderful outing for fit, experienced walkers.
The traditional start point for the Reeks Ridge is Cronin’s Yard in Mealis (see panel). From here head up the beguiling Hag’s Glen, which is dwarfed by the awesome surroundings of Ireland’s highest mountains. The trail crosses and then recrosses the River Gaddagh. After the second crossing leave the track (left) and contour to the opposite side of Lough Callee. A broad ridge, known locally as the Bone, now rises above. Follow this upwards as it leads steeply if uneventfully to Maolán Buí summit.
Having now attained the ridge proper, go left along the broad crest for about 500m to ascend the summit of Knocknapeasta, which marks the highest point on your route and offers a wonderful 360-degree panorama over Killarney’s famous lakes and fells. Included in the vista is your next challenge: the intimidating rock-blade ridge leading to the incongruously named Big Gun Mountain.
Experienced scramblers will now enjoy pinnacle-hopping this crest, but others will prefer a less demanding track, to the right, which avoids much of the exposure as it descends to a rocky gap. Directly below this gap lies lonely Lough Cummeenapeasta. Here on December 17th, 1943, an American DC-3 on a flight from Morocco to Cornwall crashed in mist, killing all five crewmen on board. On sunny days it is still possible to observe poignant pieces of wreckage glinting from the lake and the surrounding mountainside.
The ascent to the Big Gun traverses seemingly intimidating slabs of boilerplate rock, but generally the handholds are sound. Surprisingly quickly you will be standing on the tiny summit, having now acquired the bragging rights to what is commonly regarded as the most difficult to reach of Ireland’s major mountain tops.
The route now swings north over a series of pinnacles, which form a lovely crux to the ridge. The exposure is quite alarming, and the descent from each pinnacle involves confident and delicate scrambling. If in doubt about your abilities on bare rock follow a lower path left, which avoids most of the major difficulties. Rejoin the ridge where the going is less demanding and enjoy the final rocky ascent to Cruach Mhór summit. Here stands a large cairn, laboriously constructed by a devout local man, as an elevated repository for a statue of the Blessed Virgin.
Now move a little farther along the ridge before undertaking the long descent left, on often tedious terrain, to the floor of the Hag’s Glen. Aim for a point where the track used on your outward route leaves the mountainside and enters farmland. Then just follow back to Cronin’s Yard, where a welcome beverage and home-made cake awaits you in the cosy and firelit tea room.
Reeds Ridge, Co Kerry
Starting pointLeave Killarney by the N72. At Fossa turn left for the Gap of Dunloe. Continue, with the gap on your left, until you see a finger sign (left) for Carrauntoohil. This road leads to Cronin's Yard.
SuitabilityEven in good weather this is demanding and requires a head for heights. Carry a map and compass, prepare for an energy-sapping day and leave time to finish before dark. If the exposure looks too intimidating, retrace your steps down the Bone.
TimeAbout five hours.
MapsHarvey Superwalker 1:30,000 "MacGillycuddy's Reeks". Ordnance Survey Ireland 1:25,000 Map "MacGillycuddy's Reeks". Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 78.
AccommodationBy Killarney's upper lake, the three-star Castlerosse Hotel (064-31144) offers views directly on to the ridge.