The picturesque town of Ludlow, near England's border with Wales, features ancient streets, beautiful gardens and fabulous food, writes Charlotte Coleman-Smith.
FOR MORE THAN a decade the picturesque town of Ludlow, in the heart of the beautiful south Shropshire countryside, has been synonymous with great food.
With a population of only 10,000 it chalked up enough Michelin stars to earn itself an international reputation, the only place of its size in the UK to have three starred restaurants at once: Shaun Hill's the Merchant House, Claude Bosi's Hibiscus and Mr Underhill's.
The setting for this flourishing gastronomic centre could not be better, with the town's magnificent Norman castle and almost 500 listed buildings. (Time to confess my bias: I was married there, and my parents still live in the town.)
This combination of natural and architectural beauty and fine restaurants had tourists fumbling for their atlases to plan pilgrimages. But some things have changed in the few years since the first flurry of interest in Ludlow. Hibiscus has decamped to a smart Mayfair address, and Shaun Hill to Worcester, leaving Mr Underhill's, a restaurant with rooms, the only one left to fly the Michelin flag.
But foodies needn't despair. Dining at the one-starred Mr Underhill's is a sensational experience (see panel, below), and La Bécasse, which now sits on the site of Hibiscus, is awash with the kind of flourishes that are bound to attract the favourable attention of the tyre company's detectives. And you don't have to fork out a fortune to eat well in Ludlow. Even before the restaurant boom, the town had an unusual wealth of good food shops.
And there is so much to see outside of food. From the castle square it's a short walk to St Laurence's Church, which is one of England's greater, or cathedral-like, churches, built at a time of great prosperity. As you come out you'll see Broad Street ahead, sweeping down from Buttercross to the Broad Gate. With its mix of Tudor half-timbered buildings and Georgian town houses, it's surely one of England's most gracious streets.
Heading down Bull Ring towards Corve Street, and passing the Feathers Hotel, with its splendid Jacobean facade, you'll come across a clutch of antiques shops, which attract buyers from far and wide.
Back up to the castle is the historic heart of Ludlow, which is a great spot for the children. If you climb to the top of the first tower on the left, past the moat, you'll have breathtaking views across the county. Built in the 11th century as part of a line of defences along the Marches against Welsh invasions, the castle has played host to some illustrious guests, including Catherine of Aragon.
From the castle gates, turn right and hug the walls, taking the road down to Dinham Bridge, from where you can look back at the castle for a view that can hardly have changed in centuries. The bridge itself seems to hum with history.
Here, Millennium Green is the ideal spot for your picnic; save some crumbs for the ducks that swim under the bridge, keeping their distance from the waters that gush over the weir.
Cross the river and turn left for a waterside stroll along Breadwalk - bring wellies on a damp day - or head up the slope to Whitcliffe Common, where you can look back at the jumble of red-brick houses, rooftops and hidden streets. Ludlow is a secret-garden kind of a place: behind the crumbling, ancient town walls and small wooden gates are some stunning private gardens. At certain times of the year they are open to visitors.
And visitors flock to this lovely town in ever-increasing numbers. But you sense this only slightly, because you need time to get to this place. Taken at leisure, it's time well spent.
Starry-eyed at the Michelin-ranked Mr Underhill's
MR UNDERHILL'S, with the castle and its ghosts looming overhead, is a magical spot. Its owners, Judy and Chris Bradley, searched England for the perfect restaurant location before settling on Ludlow. "It just stood out," says Judy. "It had six butchers and four bakers, a couple of restaurants. There was such a nice feel to it, and there was so much going on for a tiny town. Having covered a big chunk of England, there are not many other Ludlows out there, I can tell you."
Their small, comfortable dining room seats up to 30. The set menu of seven courses means everyone eats at the same time, and service only begins once all are seated.
The cooking is exquisite, the ingredients superbly showcased by the imaginative dishes. On my recent visit, with my parents, the meal started with a cornet of marinated smoked salmon, which we ate in our fingers like an ice cream. It set the scene for course after course of sublime surprises.
A duck-liver custard with quince confit and five-spice glaze had the table in raptures. The confit, secreted under the layer of rich, velvety custard, had a subtle pear taste that was teased out further by the smoky glaze.
A dish of smoked haddock and scallops with herb pasta leaves, lemon and garden sorrel combined melt-in-the mouth pasta with expertly cooked, sweet-fleshed fish.
The star of the show was slow-roasted fillet of Mortimer Forest venison with red wine and pain épice sauce and cep risotto. I would travel a long way for a dish like this.
The choice of desserts may include a lemon tart. If you are offered it, seize the chance. The pastry is the stuff of dreams; the lemon filling brings an exciting zing of fresh, sunny citrus flavour to the tongue. I know this because, although I ordered the delicious plum crumble, I persuaded my dad to give me half of his tart, too.
We finished with some gem-like petits fours and a pot of coffee.
A warning. If youre planning a trip to Ludlow based around a visit to Mr Underhill's, book ahead. As the hottest tickets for miles around, its tables are highly sought after. Stay, if you can, in one of the rooms or suites next to the restaurant. It would be a shame to miss food like this. For me it was pretty unforgettable.
Mr Underhill's, Dinham Weir, Ludlow, 00-44-1584- 874431, www.mr-underhills.co.uk
Where to stay
Dinham Hall Hotel. By the Castle, 00-44-876464. Elegant Georgian-style hotel with a country feel. Good restaurant. Double rooms from €89.
The Feathers. Bull Ring, 00-44-1584-875261, www.feathersatludlow.co.uk. Behind the magnificent half-timbered front is a hotel that has perhaps seen better days but is still a comfortable and central place to stay. Double rooms from €79.
Castle House Lodgings, 00-44-1584-874465, www.ludlowcastle.com. Three luxury apartments within the castle walls. From €887 per week.
Overton Grange. Old Hereford Road, 00-44-1584- 873500, www.overtongrange hotel.com. Country-house hotel with Michelin-listed food. Double rooms from €82.
Fishmore Hall. Fishmore Road, 00-44-1584-875148, www.fishmorehall.co.uk. Attractive, recently renovated Georgian property a 10-minute walk from Ludlow. Rooms from €89 for a double. Restaurant seats 40.
Delbury Hall. Diddlebury, 00-44-1584-841267, www.delbury.com. Beautiful Georgian manor house with lovely gardens and self-catering apartments. A short drive from Ludlow. Doubles from €160.
Where to eat
Mr Underhill's. See review, above.
La Bécasse, 17 Corve Street, 00-44-1584-872325, www.labecasse.co.uk. Chef Will Holland heads the kitchen at this impressive fine-dining restaurant.
Ego Café Bar. Quality Square, 00-44-1584-878000, www.egocafebar.co.uk. A decent spot for a cappuccino or a light lunch.
De Grey's. Broad Street, 00-44-1584-872764, www.degreys.co.uk. Delightful time-warp tea shop in an Elizabethan building, with shop and bakery at the front. Stylish accommodation in nine rooms. From about €50 for a double.
Castle Tea Room. Ludlow Castle, 00-44-1584 878796, www.ludlowcastle.com. Tea, scones and tasteful gifts in the shadow of Ludlow Castle. 1086 Restaurant offers informal dining in the evenings.
Where to drink
Charlton Arms Hotel, Ludford Bridge, 00-44-1584- 872813. Splendid river views.
Church Inn, Buttercross, 00-44-1584-872174, www.thechurchinnludlow.com. Eight cask ales.
Unicorn Inn. 66 Corve Street, 00-44-1584-873555, www.unicorninnludlow.co.uk.
Wheatsheaf Inn. Lower Broad Street, 00-44-1584 872980, www.wheatsheaf- ludlow.co.uk.
Where to shop
Mousetrap, 6 Church Street, 00-44-1584-879556, www.mousetrapcheese.co.uk. Stocks a huge variety of local, British and continental cheeses. Deli on the Square.
4 Church Street, 00-44-1584- 877353, www.delionthe square.co.uk. Award-winning traditional delicatessen.
Marches Little Beer Shoppe. 2 Old Street, 00-44-1584-878999. An impressive range of local beers and perries (pear ciders). Look out for Three Counties Perry.
Ludlow Food Centre. Bromfield, 00-44-1584- 856000, www.ludlowfood centre.co.uk. An upmarket spot, three kilometres outside town, stocking beautiful tarts, quiches and ice creams, as well as local cheeses and estate-reared game and other meat.
A H Griffiths (11 Bull Ring, 00-44-1584-872141), Andrew Francis (1 Market Street, 00-44-1584-872008) and DW Wall Son (14 High Street, 00-44-1584-87206, www.walls butchers.co.uk) are all family-owned butchers, each with their own specialities, including home-cured bacon, home-made sausages, pork pies and pasties. In season, look out for game from nearby Mortimer Forest.
Price Sons (7 Castle Street, 00-44-1584-872815, www.pricesthebakers.co.uk), which uses traditional slow-rising dough for its breads, usually has speciality loaves, such as a dark beer and walnut loaf.
When to visit
June 21st-July 6th. Ludlow Festival stages Richard III at the castle; fringe events round town. 00-44-1584-872150, www.ludlowfestival.co.uk.
June 22nd. Magnalonga food and drink walk across 10km of beautiful countryside. www.foodfestival.co.uk/ magnalonga.
September 12th-14th. Ludlow Marches Food Drink Festival. More than 120 producers from the Welsh Marches. 00-44-1584-873957, www.foodfestival.co.uk.
November 29th-30th: Medieval Christmas Fayre. 00-44-1584-875053, www.ludlowcraftevents.co.uk.
Where to go
Ludlow Castle. Open daily from February to November; weekends only December and January. 00-44-1584-873355, www.ludlowcastle.com.
Stokesay Castle, 00-44-1588-672544, www.english-heritage.org.uk/ stokesaycastle. Billed as England's finest and best-preserved 13th-century fortified manor house.
Ten minutes' drive from Ludlow
Acton Scott Historic Working Farm, near Church Stretton, 00-44-1694-781306, www.shropshire.gov.uk/ museums.nsf. A great way to spend a leisurely afternoon with the kids.
Hampton Court, between Hereford and Leominster, 00-44-1568-797777, www.hamptoncourt.org.uk. A late-medieval castle with magnificent gardens and lovely cafe near the town of Leominster. (London has an identically named castle and gardens.)
See www.shropshire gardens.com for information on garden openings around the county.
Ironbridge Gorge Museums, Coalbrookdale, Telford, 00-44-1952-884391, www.ironbridge.org.uk.
A UN World Heritage site and "the birthplace of industry", featuring craftsmen and costumed demonstrators. About 50km from Ludlow.
GO THERE
Ludlow is a 90-minute drive from Birmingham airport, which is served by Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com), Ryanair (www.ryan air.com) and Aer Arann (www.aerarann.ie) from Dublin, Shannon, Cork and Waterford. It is about three and a half hours from London by car or train. If you are travelling by ferry, it is about the same distance by car from Holyhead and about three hours from Pembroke and Fishguard.