Go Walk: Tony Dohertysuccumbs to the allure of the Twelve Bens, where he savours some dramatic scenery and reflects on Bencorr's place in the history of the Ordnance Survey of Ireland
ONE OF THE most dramatic mountain views in the country is the Twelve Bens of Connemara from a distance on a clear evening. The great sheets of quartzite gleaming in the horizontal rays of the setting sun make them an alluring attraction to mountaineers.
There are many challenging routes, and these are not mountains that I would be tempted to tackle in bad weather. In contrast to the pristine rock of the ridges, some of the approaches are through very wet bogland that has developed on the impermeable schist that surrounds the massif.
Tackling Bencorr (711m) via Derryclare Nature Reserve is a good way to minimise the bog walking and to sample one of the best ridge walks that the bens have to offer.
The forest road is in good condition, and you can drive to the start of the climb. Once through the gate at the entrance to the nature reserve keep going until you come to a Y-junction. Keep left here and at the next junction turn right. The track gets rougher here, so either park at the junction or go on uphill to a large clearing. Do not block the way of any of the large machinery that may be operating in the forest.
Start heading uphill from the back of the clearing, leaving the new plantings on your left. The ground underfoot is rough until you get on to open mountainside. The route I took was up the middle of the three spurs that radiate from Derryclare. The lower slopes are grassy, with large clumps of bracken dotted here and there. It’s best to move diagonally uphill towards the spur, avoiding the bracken as you go.
Once you’re on the spur the grass gives way to rock slabs and large scree. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a mountain with so many false summits, and it’s a relief to finally reach the peak. There are fine views across to the Maumturks and, to the south, the Connemara lowlands, with their myriad lakes, and the panorama of the bens all about.
The ridge from Derryclare across to Bencorr is straightforward. Take care on the descent towards the col, as you will have to use your hands on a few of the more awkward rock steps. A well-worn path leads from the col up to Bencorr, the second-highest peak in the bens, on the great mountain horseshoe that runs from Ben Lettery to Derryclare. You will surely vow to come back on some long summer’s day to tackle the tempting aretes on display around you.
Bencorr has a special place in the history of the Ordnance Survey of Ireland. It was one of the original 30 trigonometrical points on which the survey was based. From it, the surveyors were able to take bearings on Slievemore, on Achill Island, Nephin, in Co Mayo, Keeper Hill, in Co Tipperary, and Barrtregaum and Mt Brandon, on the Dingle Peninsula, 150km away.
With no means of communication and no weather forecasts, it must have taken some patience to get bearings on the more distant peaks, and the sappers were camped out on Bencorr for weeks.
Bearings had to be taken at night, using lime lamps (a mix of hydrogen and oxygen used to heat a block of lime to incandescence). It must have been very frustrating to have a fine night on Bencorr but not a twinkle from Brandon, when the cloud came down on it.
The easiest descent is to retrace your steps.
Bencorr, Co Galway
Start and finishAt entrance to Derryclare Forest and Nature Reserve.
How to get thereFollow the N59 Galway to Clifden road. Two kilometres west of the village of Recess turn right on to the R344. The entrance to the forest is at an old wooden gate on the left, two and a half kilometres from the N59/R344 junction.
Map: Ordnance Survey. Discovery Series, sheet 37 (mountains), sheet 44 (approach roads).
TimeSix hours.
Distance10km.
Total ascent860m.
SuitabilityRoute is hard. Compass, map and rain gear are essential.
Food and accommodationClifden, Leenaun, Oughterard.