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WEEK 17 for David Foran and Fintan Gillespie.

WEEK 17 for David Foranand Fintan Gillespie.

WEEK 17: We rounded off our three-week drive through eastern Europe and the Baltics with a hop from Riga to Tallinn, in Estonia. With a population of only 400,000, this gem of a city is one of Europe's smallest capitals. Its 14th-century old town is full of spires and winding cobbled streets leading to hidden squares. Estonians know how to party. The best place to get involved is Club Hollywood, a "multi-level emporium of mayhem". What more needs to be said?

Heading to Scandinavia for the next leg of the drive required an overnight ferry to Stockholm. Having sailed on rusty Iranian ferries a couple of months ago, we were astounded by our mammoth and ultramodern ferry, Romantika, which spoiled us for choice with a jacuzzi, cinema, sauna, casino and even nightclub. The only downside was listening to Scandinavian oldies destroying Abba classics in the karaoke bar.

Stockholm, built on 14 islands, is a picturesque blend of majestic waterfront buildings and cutting-edge architecture. We found the centre a pleasure to explore, strolling through Norrmalm, the fashionable shopping district, before visiting the royal palace in the city's heart. But Stockholm's beauty and atmosphere come at a price: this is by far the most expensive city we have visited.

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We found the city's most remarkable characteristic to be its stunning, ultrafashionable people. They seemed to have walked straight off a Paris catwalk. We were well off the pace with the remains of our six-month-old backpacks.

Next week we drive to Oslo and the northernmost point on our tour before heading towards Denmark via Gothenburg and Malmo.

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