JOHN MORANVISITS HOTEL DEAUVILLE IN HAVANA, CUBA
OVERLOOKING THE magnificent seafront boulevard of the Malecón, in Havana, Hotel Deauville stands high above its neighbours. In architectural terms, however, the Deauville is the poor relation among the surrounding colonial mansions, which recall Cuba's time of Spanish rule. While perhaps hinting at the art deco style of the 1920s, the effect is less art and more deco.
In fact the basic design of the hotel takes us back only as far as the functional 1950s. Then it was one of many hotels on the seafront run by US mafia dons such as Lucky Luciano and Meyer Lansky, who were in league with the dictator Fulgencio Batista. Terror more than taste was their forte.
Today the Deauville offers a ringside seat to a key moment, as Cuba stands at a crossroads. Over the next fortnight Cubans will enthusiastically celebrate the 50th anniversary of the "Triumph of the Revolution". But when celebrations eventually simmer down Cuba will be entering a period of quiet revolutionary change. A key factor here will be the attitude to Cuba of Barack Obama, the incoming US president.
Even now, from the Deauville's 12-storey vantage point, you can see the changing face of Havana, as the spanking new fleet of Chinese-made Yutong buses passes below. From here you may also survey the reconstruction of old colonial buildings, making the Malecón ever more beautiful.
Perhaps more importantly for visitors, the unpretentious Deauville offers unrivalled views of the seafront, from El Morro lighthouse and Old Havana, in the east, to the old mafia hotels in the western quarter of Vedado, such as the Capri, the Riveria and the Nacional.
From your balcony you will also have a ringside view of Havana's signature traffic: the fabulous 1950s Cadillacs, Chevrolets and Oldsmobiles; horses and carriages; coco-taxis(motortrikes with yellow shells) and bici-taxis(tricycles with long back seats and sunroofs).
Look out in the late afternoon for the traditional daily parade of just-married couples as they are driven up and down the Malecón in classic open-top convertibles.
Internally, the modest Deauville would probably be rated as a two-star hotel, striving towards a three, but rooms are modern, well- serviced and air-conditioned. A major renovation is almost complete. Staff are friendly and happy to chat. My main concern is that, in the sweltering heat, the only air-conditioning in the lobby lounge is a small ceiling fan behind the bar that keeps only the bartender cool - and forces you to think of mojitos and daiquiris. (The hotel also has a cooling seventh-floor pool.)
While the Deauville may not match the style and decor of its more illustrious comrades, such as the Nacional, the Santa Isabel and the Ambos Mundos, what she can more than match any of her betters in are location, price and views. For the best views of the Malecón, Old Havana and Vedado, ask for rooms ending with 05 or 06 on any floor. Don't hesitate to ask for a change if you dislike the room.
A walk along the five-kilometre Malecón boardwalk is one of Havana's greatest pleasures, and not just for the cooling sea breeze. This is an open-air 24-hour theatre, where you can experience all the special Havana rhythms of the day and night: fishing, swimming, talking, singing, dancing, drinking, flirting and, of course, music. All of this is just outside your window.
Across the road from the Deauville you can take a ride on the new red double-decker Havana tour buses (five Cuban convertible pesos for day). For less than €5 a day the hop-on-hop-off tour bus is the solution to all your transport problems.
While the hotel itself is not a place you would choose for a meal, there are new restaurants just metres away on the seafront. One of these is El Galleon tapas bar and restaurant. This is a joint Spanish-Cuban operation that has the look of a Santiago Calatrava design.
El Galleon, too, is a fine vantage point from where to savour the wonderful technicolour sight of the huge Caribbean sun starting its slow descent in the west.
As the gangster hotels begin to turn all dark and sinister, look over to the sea wall, where silhouetted lovers hold on to each other.
In the afterglow of such a sunset, you might take a stroll up the Prado for roof-top dinner at Hotel Sevilla. As classical musicians serenade you over a memorable meal, and you glance out over a glittering Havana night, a smile might play on your lips when it dawns that you are able to do this in part because of the savings you made by staying at the humble Deauville.
WhereHotel Hotetur Deauville, Galiano 1, Havana, Cuba, 00-53-7-8668812, www.hotetur.com.
WhatBudget hotel with a view and location to die for.
RatesFrom well under €40 per night in low season if booked online.
Food and drinkOkay for snacks and light breakfast.
AmenitiesSmall pool, laundry service. Tour buses stop outside.
ChildrenBaby-sitting service and special deals.