Saturday morning
Walk through the narrow alleys, criss-crossing some of the 400 bridges. The calle (alleyways) around the Rialto Bridge here are full of tiny bacari (wine bars) such as Al' Merca on Fondamenta Riva Olio, perfect for trying cicchetti (snacks) such as baccala mantecato and ombra (a small glass of local wine).
Saturday afternoon
It is impossible to visit La Serenissima without seeing Piazza San Marco. Explore the Palazzo Ducale and take the tour that will bring you to see the secret passages, torture chambers and gloomy dungeons. In the Basilica of San Marco, go upstairs and see the four bronze horses brought from Constantinople in the 13th century.
Saturday night
Stay in an authentic Venetian hotel, Novecento (novecento.biz/en) in S. Marco. Feast like a Venetian on fresh fish at Ai 4 Feri in Calle Lunga S. Barnaba.
Sunday morning
Start the day with coffee in a pastry shop opened in 1742, Pasticceria Rizzardini at Campiello di Meloni 1416, S. Polo. Take the ferry to the island of Burano and stop for lunch at Trattoria Al Gatto Nero, Via Giudecca 88, for pasta with spider crab.
Orna O'Reilly, formerly an interior designer, lives in Veneto and writes full time. She blogs about Italy at ornaoreilly.com.
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