This summer marks 40 years since Steven Spielberg's Jaws made Martha's Vineyard a household name, setting off the island's inexorable transformation from remote haven of artists and hippies to high-profile haunt of celebrities and presidents. Yes, in summer, dinner and ferry reservations may be difficult to get, and traffic tests tempers. But what hasn't changed is what makes the island so magical: breathtaking natural beauty, rich ethnic heritage, a vibrant cultural scene and an abundance of farms and fisheries that feed a savvy foodie community.
One thing you won't find: the popular Monster Shark Tournament, which was discontinued last summer, thanks in part to the shark activist wife, Wendy Benchley, of the Jaws author (and screenwriter), Peter Benchley. But you'll still spot more artists, writers and hippies than you can shake a codfish bone at.
FRIDAY
2pm Tent city
From the dock in Oak Bluffs, the green expanse of Ocean Park encircled by ornate Victorian homes looks much like the bustling resort it was more than 130 years ago. Then it was called Cottage City, for the annual Methodist retreat that grew from a few worshipers who camped in tents to hundreds of cottages built around a tabernacle. The nostalgic organ tunes emanating from the 139-year-old Flying Horses carousel can still be heard above the din of Circuit Avenue as you pass the tee-shirt and ice-cream shops and enter the oasis of the camp-meeting neighbourhood.
Walk around the circular 1879 wrought-iron tabernacle and marvel at the colourful Carpenter Gothic-style cottages. Today, this nondenominational community is an integral part of the summer scene, hosting art shows, singalongs, films and speakers.
Don’t miss the Cottage Museum, where period furnishings, historical materials and a volunteer tell the story of this National Historic Landmark.
5pm Swim and snack
The gentle waves at State Beach on Nantucket Sound make this a fine spot for a swim. Bring sushi from nearby Lookout Tavern (starting at $10 (
9), order ahead) or fried whole clams from Giordano’s (about $15) and frosty local Bad Martha’s or Offshore beer from Jim’s Package Store. Between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown along Beach Road is the Big Bridge, also known as Jaws Bridge (it was in the movie), where leaping into the water at high tide, preferably with fanfare, is a rite of summer. Across the road, kayakers, paddleboarders and shellfishing enthusiasts ply the waters of Sengekontacket Pond.
7.45pm Red Cat and beyond
Walking into the Red Cat Kitchen in Oak Bluffs feels like going to a friend's house for dinner, whether you sit on the porch under Chinese lanterns or inside surrounded by local art and great music. The chef, Ben deForest, serves up favourites from his storied restaurant past – including the Island Fresca, a mix of corn, tomatoes, basil and Parmesan – and sensational new ones, like a deep-fried golden tomato with lobster salad. The menu changes frequently; dinner for two, with drinks, is about $125. Then check out the American whiskeys at the new gastro pub 20byNine, or enjoy a cocktail while listening to jazz or acoustic music at Park Corner Bistro. At the dark, loud Ritz you can dance like mad to local bands, while classy Lola's on Island Inn Road hosts dancing on weekends to soul and R&B.
SATURDAY
8.30am Breakfast bomb
Ever since Gina Stanley took over the 72-year-old Art Cliff Diner in Vineyard Haven in 2000, this retro restaurant, with lunch counter and swivel stools, has become a favourite. The Bull's Eye (codfish cakes with eggs prepared your way, arugula, spicy hollandaise) and almond-crusted French toast are two reasons lines can be long. Prices have gone up since the sign over the counter advertised a 60-cent burger, but at about $25 for a breakfast for two, it's still a deal.
9.30am Go west
A stop in West Tisbury is a time-honoured ritual on the way to rural "up-island". The farmers' market at the old Grange Hall is where chefs, visitors and locals select the freshest bounty offered by nearly 40 farms and vendors. Sample smoked bluefish from MV Smokehouse, creamy Mermaid Farm feta or Morning Glory produce; buy fleece (or even an alpaca) from the Island Alpaca farm. Across State Road, the whimsical female forms sculpted by the late Tom Maley beckon visitors to the Field Gallery, still a showcase for local artists.
Browse the wares at Alley's General Store, a local fixture since 1858, and take in the evocative landscapes of the local painter Allen Whiting, at the Davis House Gallery (also his residence; call first). Heading west, the landscape changes to rolling hills and water views, favourite subjects of Thomas Hart Benton, who honed his sinuous style over 50 years of up-island summers.
A stop at the Chilmark General Store is de rigueur for a slice of pizza ($3.50), best savoured on the porch. Then load up on Chappy Chews and Beetlebung Bars at nearby Chilmark Chocolates.
Noon Gay Head no more
Aquinnah is the name of the Wampanoag tribal land, formerly known as Gay Head for its colourful clay cliffs. The view from the lookout above the Aquinnah Circle shops is dramatic: the cliffs weep clay onto the beach, which is strewn with enormous boulders – "erratics" – deposited by receding glaciers.
The Gay Head Lighthouse made headlines in May when it was moved 129ft back from the eroding hillside where it stood since 1856. Walk downhill along a scenic trail to beautiful Moshup Beach, named for a Wampanoag legend.
3pm Big Bight The Great Rock Bight preserve has it all: a hike, views, beach and swimming. The 1.5-mile loop trail winds through mostly wooded terrain with glimpses of blue through the beech trees as you approach the spectacular view across Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands. You will also find a site on the Vineyard African-American Heritage Trail: a plaque memorializing Rebecca, a slave married to the Wampanoag Elisha Amos, who lived here. Steps lead to the beach, where you can swim out to the Great Rock.
5pm Lobster and sunset The historic harbour village Menemsha is the heart and soul of the island's commercial fishing industry. The two family-run seafood markets on the Dutcher Dock sit at the water's edge, where boats unload their haul. Stroll the dock for a look at the boats, especially the retired Unicorn, owned by the Mayhew family who harpooned swordfish for generations. Enjoy clam chowder on the deck at the Home Port ($8), or get a steaming lobster ($16) from Larsen's Fish Market and walk a few steps to the beach (a favourite for viewing sunsets) to savour a quintessential Vineyard experience.
8pm Port Hunter Despite naming their restaurant for a shipwreck, the owners of the Port Hunter – local brothers, Patrick and Ted Courtney – have seen nothing but success since opening in 2012. Nautical paintings and marine details complement the seafood-centric menu, which might include Chatham mussels in curry sauce with focaccia for dipping, and Buffalo Brussels sprouts with blue cheese mousse. Dinner for two with drinks, about $120. Stay on for live music, or walk down Main Street to the Atlantic Fish and Chop House for the bar scene.
SUNDAY
9am Plane Fare and surf The Right Fork Diner is next to the Katama airfield at the island's southeast end. The blueberry buttermilk pancakes ($12) and the PBLT (smoked pork belly, tomato, lettuce and aioli on sourdough, $12) are among the main attractions. Nearby South Beach draws crowds with powerful surf. You can now walk from South Beach to Chappaquiddick, which has been an island intermittently for centuries because of fluctuating tidal patterns. In April, the barrier beach finally merged with "Chappy," allowing pedestrians and vehicles to pass.
1pm Lunch and look Cool off at Among the Flowers Cafe, one block from the Edgartown harbour, with salads like the Powerhouse (kale, spinach, berries, almonds and feta, $12); omelettes; sandwiches and more, in a relaxed setting with a shaded brick patio.
Most of downtown is a National Historic Landmark district. The whaling industry thrived in Edgartown between 1820 and 1865, when such stately structures as the Old Whaling Church and the adjacent Dr Daniel Fisher House were built. The latter stands in contrast to the humble Vincent House Museum behind it, circa 1672.
The Martha’s Vineyard Museum has many excellent displays depicting island history. Walk along North Water Street to the Harbor View Hotel, queen of Vineyard hostelries. From there, the view of the Edgartown Lighthouse, the harbour and beyond is picture-perfect.
WHERE TO STAY
The Lambert's Cove Inn, Farm and Restaurant (a former estate dating from 1790) occupies seven beautifully landscaped acres in West Tisbury that include produce gardens, poultry and goats. Double rooms start at $250 and include a full breakfast and access to lovely Lambert's Cove Beach. The restaurant is top-notch.
The Look Inn is a restored 1806 farmhouse located on a quiet street in Vineyard Haven, just blocks from Main Street and the ferry. The three well-appointed rooms share a full bath, and continental breakfast on the sun porch is included. Rooms are $135.
© 2015 The New York Times, distributed by The New York Times Syndicate
