Ski within the city boundaries in winter or bask in the summer sun beside the fjord in Norway's character-filled capital of Oslo, writes Clare Doyle
OSLO IS AN eccentric city in its way, a small capital with a long and chequered history involving more-powerful neighbours and a fierce sense of independence. Does that sound familiar? Well, the main attraction of Oslo is that it's different. You wouldn't visit the Norwegian capital because it's cheap, but how many places offer you the opportunity to ski within the city boundaries or to sledge your way back to the tram stop after lunch at the top of a mountain?
The opportunities to sledge or ski are not available during these summer months, but what you can celebrate right now is the blue-green character of Oslo: the blue of the fjord and the green of the surrounding hills, the long evenings, the excellent seafood and the clarity of the light.
The city centre is perfect for walking, and wherever you go downtown you are aware of the presence of water. Unexpected glimpses of the fjord draw you from the ends of streets, the sound of ships' horns echo across the shopping streets. The boardwalks along the waterfront, packed with outdoor restaurants and bars, encourage you to linger and people-watch in the breezy sunshine and to enjoy the eclectic mix of architecture.
The other attraction of the harbour is that it is still busy, with giant cruise ships and ferries entering and leaving the port, as well as vast numbers of small craft jostling the dockside.
Above all, Oslo is accessible. The Oslo pass, which you can buy at any tourist-information outlet, gives you free public transport and entry to the many museums, as well as discounts in some restaurants.
The transport is efficient, clean and speedy, and as little of the world's population speaks Norwegian, most Norwegians speak other languages, principally English, so for the anglophone tourist communication is not a problem.
The latest jewel in the crown of Oslo is its new opera house. It rises out of the water, all glass and steel and shining white Carrara marble, in what used to be a run-down dock area. So far, so predictable, but what is unexpected and exciting is that you are invited to walk all over the building.
The day we visited there were families with children in buggies scrambling over the opera house, peering into the foyer from the upper levels. It really did feel like a people's palace. How many public buildings do you know that have signs on them advising that skateboarding is not allowed on the roof?
Then there are the parks. Oslo has extensive and excellent open spaces. There is the somewhat creepy Vigeland sculpture park, stuffed with Soviet-looking monumental figures and vaguely threatening children. For unknown reasons, the best-known figure of the more than 200 that adorn the park is one of the smallest - a child in full tantrum. This particular sculpture has been stolen and disfigured more often than any other. Vigeland is one of Oslo's most-visited attractions, and the sheer scale of the enterprise makes it worth a look.
Oslo offers other cultural and artistic experiences, from the Nobel Peace Centre or the Center for Studies of Holocaust and Religious Minorities, if you are feeling serious, through to Tusenfryd Amusement Park, where you can float upside down in a fast-moving canoe or enjoy many of the other hair-raising rides. There are also many outdoor wildlife or sporting activities.
That's all apart from Ibsen. This year, in August, the biennial Ibsen Festival takes place in the distinguished national theatre, where theatre groups from all over the world come to present their interpretations of Norway's most celebrated dramatist.
You can also explore the fjord with little difficulty. Use your Oslo pass to take a ferry, make a picnic and go island-hopping. Should you buy the provisions for a picnic in one of the many supermarkets, I can recommend lomper, potato pancakes that substitute for bread, light and delicious.
To those coming from Ireland, the coastline of the fjord is reminiscent of west Cork on a grander scale, but the architecture tells you immediately that you are in Scandinavia. There are wooden houses painted in rich colours, with steeply pitched roofs and white framed windows. They almost look like a pastiche of what a Nordic landscape should resemble.
The people we encountered were unfailingly courteous and helpful, and we returned from our few days feeling invigorated. We'll definitely go back.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Grand Hotel. Karl Johans gate 31, 00-47-23-212000, www.grand.no. This is where the winners of the Nobel Peace Prize stay when they come to collect their awards. The playwright Henrik Ibsen used to eat lunch in the restaurant. It's as central as possible, as it's on Oslo's main street, across the road from the parliament, but it's not cheap.
Hotell Bondeheimen. Rosenkrantz gate 8, 00-47-23-214100, www.bondeheimen.com. This hotel is in central Oslo, a block from the Grand Hotel, with slightly more accessible prices. People who work for non-governmental organisations tend to stay here when visiting the city.
Thon Hotel Astoria. Dronningens gate 21, 00-47-24-145550, www.thonhotels.com/astoria. This central 180-room hotel has more affordable prices.
Radisson SAS Plaza. Sonja Henies plass 3, 00-47-22-058000, www.plaza.oslo.radissonsas.com. This 37-storey hotel is the tallest building in Norway. It's expensive, but a trip to the bar at the top, for the view over the fjord, is worth it. Such tall buildings are unpopular in the Nordic region, because in the short winter days they cast enormous shadows that steal sunshine.
Bogstad Camping. Ankerveien 117, 00-47-22-510800, www.bogstadcamping.no. For something completely different (and cheaper), how about taking a cabin on a campsite? Bogstad is nine kilometres from Oslo's city centre, and easily reached by public transport. It has all the necessary facilities and 46 cabins for hire.
5 places to eat
Solsiden. Sondre Akershus kai 34, 00-47-22-333630, www.solsiden.no. Great seafood on the sunny side of the town as the sun goes down. It has the advantage of looking west when Aker Brygge, the main seafront part of the city with many bars and restaurants, is in the shade. It is only open during the summer season, and is not cheap, but is usually worth it.
Theatercaféen. Hotel Continental, Stortingsgaten 24/26, 00-47-22-824050, www.hotel-continental.com. This place has an opulent setting, with prices to match - don't be taken in by the "cafe" in the name. Lunchtime sandwiches are probably the best way to go without burning too big a hole in your budget.
Hoybraten Bar. Grensen 10, 00-47-22-340230, byrakrat.monalisahuset.no. Norway was the second country, after Ireland, to ban smoking in bars and restaurants, and the Hoybraten Bar (named after the health minister at the time, Dagfinn Hoybraten) has taken it to a Nordic extreme, with an outdoor section where even the pavement has underground heating, so that smokers can sit outside even when it is snowing. It is also linked to not-so-expensive restaurants, including the Italian Mona Lisa and Café Beirut, which serves Mediterranean food.
Sult, Lille Herbern. 00-47-22-449700, www.sult.no. A most idyllic setting on a sunny summer's day, the restaurant is on a tiny island with views over the fjord, including the vast cruise ships that pass just metres away. It is about a 15-minute walk from either the Kon-Tiki Museum or the Viking Ship Museum and then a short ferry ride over to Lille Herbern island. It is only open during summer.
Finstua. Frognerseteren, Holmenkollveien 200, N-0791, 00-47-22924040, www.frognerseteren.no. Take a tram to the end of the line above Oslo to Frognerseteren, to get to the Finstua restaurant and cafe for an amazing view down over the city. In winter you can go cross-country skiing or sledge back down to the city.
5 places to go
Oslo Opera House. Bjorvika, www.operaen.no. Built in a run-down part of town at a cost of €500 million, the spectacular white-marble building was opened in April to wide applause - the only controversy on opening night was the plunging low-cut dress worn by German chancellor Angela Merkel. It is free to look around the exterior. Tickets for performances are available at www.operaen.no.
Vigeland Park. www.museumsnett.no/ vigelandmuseet. Acres of granite and bronze statues from Norway's best-known sculptor.
The Holmenkollen ski jump. www.skiforeningen.no. Take the tram to the Holmenkollen station and it's a short walk uphill to the Holmenkollen ski jump. You can take a lift and stairs to the top for a breathtaking panorama of the city and a heartstopping view down the ski run.
Akershus Castle and Fortress. Akershus Festning, www.mil.no/felles/ak. This medieval castle, begun in 1299 under King Hakon V, has a strategic location at the end of the headland, where it withstood a number of sieges. King Christian IV (1588-1648) had the castle modernised and converted into a Renaissance castle and royal residence. There are guided tours of the fortress in the summer (and at other times of the year on request). The changing of the guards takes place daily at 1.30pm.
Norwegian Museum of Cultural History. Museumsveien 10, www.norskfolkemuseum.no. This, one of Europe's largest open-air museums, has a variety of traditional Norwegian houses. Lots of activities take place during the summer, including folk- dancing, arts and crafts, baking and shows. There are also several indoor exhibits with traditional handicraft items, folk costumes, furniture and church interiors. Recommended activities for children are the horse and carriage rides, animal visits and an old-fashioned candy store.
Hot spot
Smuget. Rosenkrantz gate 22, 00-47-22-425262, www.smuget.no.
Smuget is one of Europe's biggest music clubs, with 600-700 live shows every year. The music profile includes jazz, rock, blues, RB, funk and soul. The guests are of all types and ages and create a colourful environment.
Cool coffee
Hambro's Café. Kristian IV's gate 7, 00-47-22-826026, www.bristol.no. Hambro's Café is located at the Hotel Bristol, a block from the main street and the parliament. The interior is in classical Italian design, and the atmosphere is pleasantly relaxed. Choose from tasteful small dishes, sandwiches, a wide variety of coffees and teas, large filled ciabattas and delicious cakes.
Where to shop
On the west side of the cathedral square is Glassmagasinet (Stortorvet 9, www.glasmagasinet.no), one of Oslo's biggest department stores. It sells all kinds of Norwegian crafts, pewter, and silver, as well as everyday goods of all kinds.
You'll find exceptional shops along Karl Johans Gate and on the streets leading off it, where all the major stores are located.
Oslo's official website, www.visitoslo.com, includes special deals for staying in the city
Go there
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Oslo (Torp) on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.
SAS (www.flysas.com) flies from Dublin to Oslo (OSL) on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays.