John Downesmixes oceanfront stays with trips to less accessible parts of Australia on a trip to the eastern state of Queensland
PERHAPS IT WAS the sight of glow-worms late at night, in the middle of the Australian rainforest, or being surrounded by hundreds of tropical fish while scuba-diving in the Great Barrier Reef. Then again, other contenders for the most memorable experience of my trip to Queensland include a helicopter ride over the stunning Whitsunday Islands, before landing on the pristine sands of Whitehaven Beach, and viewing sunrise over Surfers Paradise, on the Gold Coast.
If you're thinking of visiting Australia, the state of Queensland - which has pleasant average temperatures of 25 degrees in summer and 15 degrees in winter - has heaps to offer.
The 74 stunning Whitsunday Islands, for example, 1,100km from Brisbane and surrounded by the natural wonder of the Great Barrier Reef, are home to a huge array of wildlife, both aquatic and land.
You can fly into one of two regional airports - Hamilton Island or Proserpine - then take a ferry around the islands. Activities include scuba-diving, snorkelling and trekking.
We stayed at the luxury Hayman Island Resort, many of whose rooms look on to the beach, and it is easy to see why it is popular with well-heeled honeymooners. Access to the island is restricted to guests, who can arrive, for an extra charge, by yacht or by air.
Hayman is a place of relaxed opulence, with fine dining, friendly staff and daily excursions by sea, air and land, and with golfing nearby, but the Whitsundays area is popular, too, with backpackers and others on modest budgets.
The bars and clubs in Airlie Beach, a key backpacker resort, are full of young travellers intent on having as much fun as possible.
Nowhere is tourism's role in the Queensland economy more evident than on the Gold Coast. Surfers Paradise is one of the main attractions, a town known for its seemingly endless sandy beaches, large waves and numerous hotels and serviced short-stay apartments.
Some might baulk at the high-rise nature of many of its buildings, but it is not hard to see why the area appeals to Australian and foreign visitors alike.
For sun worshippers, most if not all of its hotels and apartment blocks have pools, and the town has a wide range of bars, restaurants and nightlife.
But the star attraction of Surfers Paradise is the sheer beauty of its beaches and ocean. A trip on a sailing boat - dolphins swam alongside ours - is highly recommended.
We stayed in serviced apartments in the world's tallest residential building, home to Q1 Resort Spa, which rises over 300m and is only a short walk from the beach.
My one-bedroom apartment had all the fixtures and fittings you would expect from a high-end development - and far more space than you would expect in a similarly priced hotel.
Surfers Paradise is an ideal base for anyone interested in exploring the area - 90 minutes away, for example, is O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat.
This fantastic guesthouse, which also has a 48-villa ecovillage and spa, was founded 90 years ago by the sons of Fermanagh immigrants, who came to the area to farm before turning their hands to tourism.
The resort, which is still run by their descendants, is located in Lamington National Park, a Unesco World Heritage site, almost a kilometre above sea level, accessible by winding mountain roads.
Its rooms are very comfortable, with beautiful views of the surrounding landscape, where you can spot possums, rainforest wallabies and scores of species of birds.
The rooms come without telephones or televisions (although you can access the internet at reception), as part of the retreat's emphasis on relaxation.
Among the resort's activities are those fantastic night-time glow-worm walks, a superb treetop walk over the rainforest canopy, early-morning bird walks and four-wheel-drive-bus trips to scenic lookouts.
Perhaps the biggest consideration if you're thinking about visiting Queensland, and Australia in general, is the time it takes to get there, given that you lose the best part of two days travelling each way.
But if you're willing to make the trek, and allow time to take full advantage of the experience, it is well worth it.
GO THERE
John Downestravelled to Queensland as a guest of Ethiad Airways (www.ethiadairways.com) and Tourism Queensland (www.queenslandholiday.com.au). Etihad flies to Brisbane from Dublin via Abu Dhabi and Singapore. Economy fares start at €1,496 return, including taxes and charges.
Where to stay and eat
Where to stay
Hayman Island Resort (Great Barrier Reef, 00-61-7- 49401234 or 00-44-20-8545 2615, www.hayman.com.au) offers sheer luxury.
Coral Sea Resort (25 Oceanview Avenue, Airlie Beach, Whitsundays, 00-61-7-49641300, www.coralsearesort.com.) offers outdoor jacuzzis and double hammocks at the water's edge.
O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat, Villas Lost World Spa (Lamington National Park Road, via Canungra, 00-61-7-55024911, www.oreillys.com.au) has strong Irish connections.
Q1 Resort Spa, Hamilton Avenue, Surfers Paradise, 00-61-7-56304524, www.q1.com.au.
Where to eat
Palazzo Versace (Sea World Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise, 00-61-7-55098000, www.palazzoversace.com) is the place to go for sheer bling, and for some celebrity-spotting - contestants on I'm a Celebrity . . . Get Me Out of Here stay here when they are evicted.
Songbirds Restaurant in the Gold Coast hinterland (Tamborine Mountain Road, North Tamborine, 00-61-7- 55452563, www.songbirds. com.au) serves superb food in a spectacular rainforest setting.