Irish prices for food, drink and accommodation have been heavily scrutinised in recent years, amped up by post-pandemic inflation and a cost-of-living crisis.
This means Irish holidaymakers are quick to complain about the relative cost of staycations compared with overseas trips. For tourists, however, Ireland can be a different place.
The country is often sold as a premium destination, and many arrive expecting, and accepting, high costs.
Despite this, some of the big attractions Ireland has on offer – natural landscapes, historical architecture, a renowned arts scene – do not necessarily command exorbitant fees. The Irish Times spoke to overseas tourists to get a sense of who the country is catering for, and how they feel about their experiences here.
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How expensive is an Irish holiday?
“There are several ways to be on holidays here,” says Nicole Borchert, who is visiting Ireland from Leipzig, Germany. “I know some people – they all love Ireland and come back a lot. They drive by bus, for example, or they stay in hostels. So, there are a lot of possibilities.”
For this particular trip, Nicole is not restraining herself. “We saved some money over the year,” she says, “and therefore, we’re here to spend some. We decided to always be in hotels, which is not usual for us. Normally, we go to Airbnb, but hotels are cheaper here. It’s about €100, €150 [per night] for the three of us.”
Generally, prices are aligning with those back in Germany, although Nicole’s first meal in Dublin – €140 on food for three – was higher than the €90-€100 she is used to spending at home.
Robyn Thornley, from Vancouever, is staying in a three-star Staycity aparthotel in Dublin. Accommodation is costing her 1,000 Canadian dollars (€667) for four nights, but she is splitting that price with a friend.
“I think when you’re travelling, and you’ve got a certain amount of money, you’re always aware of how much things cost,” she says. “But I’m here for the experience so I’m going to pay for the Book of Kells and the tours regardless of what it costs.”
Many tourists struggle to differentiate Irish prices from what they experience at home. Phoenix Artemisia and Tom May are visiting from California with their two children.
At the time of speaking, the family is glamping at Castledarcy, Co Clare – a 10-minute drive from Milltown Malbay, where they have come to experience the Willie Clancy summer school.
“It depends on your socioeconomic echelon, where you come from,” Phoenix says of visiting Ireland. “We wouldn’t have been able to do this five years ago but we’re in a different place now.
“It’s like living in the Bay Area in California,” she continues. “If you want a vacation there, it’s going to be like $200 [€183], $250 a night, $100 for a meal for four people – that’s just kind of the way it is.”
Karen Gee, another Californian, thinks Ireland is “very reasonably priced” and better value than much of the US. She suggests she would be more likely to return to the country after experiencing its prices.
On her trip to Europe, Karen found London to be more expensive than Ireland, and Croatia slightly cheaper. She often visits Paris, and believes it offers some of the same attractions she has found in Dublin.
“Paris is more expensive but it’s similar to the experience,” she says. “I love historical architecture and a lot of cultural things.”
Paris natives Lili Faucher and Sandra Cordero concur. “We went to the south of Ireland, and everything was free – like hiking trails,” Lili says. “That was very enjoyable. But here [Dublin], I don’t think it’s too expensive. It’s like Paris.”
Can premium prices represent value for money?
A tourist can paint Irish and Parisian prices in a positive light, but the comparison might not sit so well here. Eoghan O’Mara Walsh, chief executive of the Irish Tourism Industry Confederation (ITIC), acknowledges that Ireland cannot compete with some of the more affordable European countries.
“We’re never going to be the cheapest destination,” says Mr O’Mara Walsh. “We’re never going to be like the Mediterranean. But we do at least offer a high-quality, if you like, premium visitor experience. And the price that’s charged still represents value for money for the consumer.”
You go to a restaurant and it’s €20 for this meal, which is about what I pay in Canadian. But then, when we do the conversion, this meal is really 30 Canadian dollars
— Andrew Ward from Nova Scotia
There are swathes of overseas tourists for whom that sentiment rings true. Mr O’Mara Walsh explains that Fáilte Ireland carries out regular surveys on visitors’ experiences in Ireland.
“One of the key questions,” he says, “is ‘did you find your holiday experience value for money?’ Thankfully, most tourists still do find it value for money which is a relief.”
Not everyone believes the premium prices are worth it though. Ramon Peña, visiting Galway with his family from Madrid, takes issue with the higher costs.
“The food is expensive,” he says. “The restaurants and the supermarkets. The petrol is similar to Spain, and we are doing foreign exchange, so we are not paying for the hotels.
“I feel it’s very repetitive, the food here in Ireland,” Ramon adds. “A lot of fried things. A lot of potato in all the food. If you compare a regular fish and chips, in Spain it is much cheaper.”
Andrew Ward, travelling with his wife, Beth Hadley, from Nova Scotia, has had a more positive dining experience. “We haven’t had a bad meal yet and we’ve been here a week today,” he says. Still, the prices are notably higher.
“You go to a restaurant and it’s €20 for this meal, which is about what I pay in Canadian,” Andrew says. “But then, when we do the conversion, this meal is really 30 Canadian dollars.”
Those spending more significant amounts on meals and activities seem relatively content. It may be why Ireland’s tourism industry has shifted further toward that premium bracket.
Stefan Sijn and Marjolein Schlarmann came from the Netherlands to stay in Galway. “Yesterday, we ate on the Aran Islands,” Stefan says. “We ate, I think, €75 per person. So that was quite expensive. It was a nice restaurant, so it was okay.”
Recent data from the Central Statistics Office (CSO) shows that overseas tourism for May 2024 in Ireland is up 8.5 per cent on the same month last year. The period for January to May of this year is up 17 per cent on 2023, although the average duration of holidays in Ireland is declining year on year.
Still, there are concerns over the impact of rising operating costs on the industry. Mr O’Mara Walsh highlights inflation on energy and utility bills, but the big issue that he and others in the tourism sector are bemoaning is the VAT increase.
The VAT rate for hospitality and tourism was restored to 13.5 per cent in September of last year, having previously stood at a reduced 9 per cent. Since then, almost one in two Dublin pubs who serve food say they have experienced a drop in business.
Saying that, almost none of the tourists interviewed suggested high prices would put them off another trip to Ireland in the future. It may be anecdotal, but it suggests a holiday in Ireland is still possible, and popular, among different demographics.
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