Trench coat, white shirt, biker jacket – no, it’s not an audit of your wardrobe but some key spring pieces. A new season typically means a wardrobe refresh, a pressure to buy something new and keep up with the trends, but for spring 2023, what you already have in your wardrobe has the style seal of approval.
Blame it on the cost of living or the post-pandemic purge of excess, but there’s a distinct shift by designers to go back to basics, with cherished classics as a focus and timeless designs at the forefront of the spring collections. Minimal, restrained and versatile clothing was abundant on the runways of Prada, Peter Do and Khaite. The high street has followed suit, with retailers such as Mango, Massimo Dutti and Zara crafting collections centred around the pared-back aesthetic. Think pieces for easy everyday dressing, including modern bouclé jackets, trench coats, crisp white button-down or striped shirts, and oversized blazers. Comfort and wearability are, we are glad to see, still key. Perfectly embodying that is the knitted dress, which is weaved in lighter versions for the brighter months.
Low-key colours were also dominant in the spring collections, including beige, camel, soft pastel, and whites, as visible on the runways of Dries Van Noten, The Row, and Jil Sander. But, surprisingly, black is back too. Not typical of a hue associated with the warmer months, the moody shade was featured heavily on the catwalks. Expect the inky shade to hit the shop floor too, as at the recent Brown Thomas spring fashion show, head-to-toe black looks were a significant feature, from Cecile Bahnsen’s sculptural textured coat to an Alexander McQueen tailored longline tux to a Victoria Beckham asymmetrical dress, and a cropped jacket and full skirt look by Erdem.
Merging low-key and functionality, read: pockets, is the utility trend. Cargo trousers with pockets a-plenty are more versatile than ever. Less baggy, sleeker, and crafted in silky, luxe materials, the utilitarian trouser can be worn casually with trainers or elevated for the evening with heels, as seen on the runways of Coperni, Dior and Dion Lee. The practical trend continues, with jackets, jumpsuits, and skirts getting a multi-pocket makeover.
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The Miu-Miu inspired abbreviated hemlines of last year are being switched out for exaggerated lengths that hark back to the 1990s. Floor-sweeping maxis replace micro-minis, reflecting the sombre mood of the economy. The latest iterations of maxis are less bohemian and more tailored, made to be worn with oversized blazers, biker jackets or trenches. On the runways, ground-dusting hems were seen at Gucci, Maison Margiela and Altuzzara, while nostalgic long denim skirts are trending on TikTok. Denim, in general, has been reworked and reimagined for the season ahead. Runway designers sent out every piece imaginable crafted in the trusty blue fabric, even layering denim from head to toe. If you want to update your denim wardrobe with an item that will go the distance, opt for wide, relaxed or straight-leg jeans that are equal parts comfortable and chic.
If you’re more maximalist than minimalist, you’re in luck as the runway still did feature some frivolity and fashion with a capital F. Designers haven’t packed away the party-wear after Christmas but embraced it wholeheartedly for spring. Sequins, flashes of metallics, fringing and vibrant designs bring a sense of fun to the more muted season. Cobalt blue was a standout shade, and so were violet, lime and saffron. Pink is still in, and vibrant magenta is the Pantone colour of the year. Look for bright column dresses or statement tailoring to stand out during occasion season. Sequins usually might feel too festive, but designers have rustled up a way of getting more out of your sparkly pieces with a trend coined daytime shine. Michael Kors and Jil Sander did it best with a basic wardrobe pieces like a white shirt or tank styled with sequins for a dressed-up, dressed-down look with all-year-round longevity.
