“It’s given me a new lease of life. The vibe of this street means casual but quality,” says designer Helen McAlinden of her move to 19 Drury Street, where the mix of small Irish shops contrasts notably with nearby Grafton Street’s international brands, most of which are shoes.
The move has also encouraged her to broaden her offering because “we have to offer total solutions”, says McAlinden. That means collaborations with Sophie Lingerie, designed by former Wonderbra model Sophie Anderton, now living in Wicklow (well made, well priced bra tops €60 and bodies €90 in lovely colours that go equally well with palazzos or ball skirts); bespoke gloves from George Horn (who will also be making leather jackets and skirts for McAlinden on a made-to-measure basis); custom millinery from Anna Victoria Mulcahy in Galway; scarves from London-based Irish designer Rory Hutton; and bags from My Name is Ted.
There aren’t many Irish designers like McAlinden who is not only running a shop and delivering clothing collections twice a year but who is also involved in interiors and lifestyle brands such as her bed and household linens for Foxford. Plans for further expansion are in the pipeline.
In the meantime, for autumn/winter her collection is strong on coats and easy-going tailored separates in neutral colours and quality fabrics. There’s a standout cherry red cashmere coat for €550, a shawl-collared winter white coat in a wool blend for €599, and her familiar trench comes this time in stone satin back crepe for €445.
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Years of experience informs what she designs and what she calls everyday, reliable but elevated wardrobe staples such as the classic blazer, this season reprised in charcoal grey wool with matching grey wide-leg trousers and grey cashmere polo neck sweaters for all-in-one elegance and comfort.
Wearable workwear dresses include fit and flare silhouettes, others with dropped sleeves and side slits in bright green silk. With weddings in mind, her mahogany red A-line full length skirt inspired by the 1950s is a good choice for formal or black-tie events.
Glen check tweeds from Magee feature in long coats, oversized jackets and wide trousers. Added to the mix are denim jeans but, in dark grey or dark blue.
Every piece is designed as a co-ordinate and prints are minimal, confined solely to a blouse. Dark plunge bras with orange straps, free of the usual lingerie frills and laces, are deliberately taken out of underwear into outerwear and worn dramatically with floor-length ball skirts or with wide leg culottes.
The shade spectrum is similarly conceived. There are greys with greys or grey spiced with chartreuse, neutrals alone or with mink and beige, oxblood with black and, throughout, shots of purple, hot pink and red.
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It’s a well-mannered, comfortable collection with a laid-back look which links casual with professional and after six.
Final notes of shine are displayed in burnished copper jersey tops, copper taffeta full-length skirts, silk-blend separates and silver pleat tops. And the best news? Everything has pockets.