Standing on a sun-soaked Transylvanian mountain trail, I paused as my GPS instructed me to veer off the dusty path and into the field ahead. Usually, I’d prefer to stick to a trail, and this detour might have been fine if it weren’t for the electric fence barring my way and a large sign screaming “Atentie! Bivoli Periculosi”. I didn’t need Google Translate to figure it out. The photo of a massive horned buffalo stopped me in my tracks.
When planning my walking holiday in Romania, dangerous buffaloes weren’t exactly on my radar. Bears, yes – perhaps I worried about them more than necessary. But buffaloes? That was a surprise. I booked the trip with a company called The Natural Adventure. They handled accommodation and some meals, organised daily bag transfers, and created a self-guided walking itinerary. The route came with GPS coordinates downloaded on to an app and detailed written instructions in case technology failed.
After much discussion with my hiking buddies, we entered the field. I unclipped the electric fence and scanned for any sign of menacing buffaloes, half expecting an angry horned creature to appear. We tentatively walked across the field and thankfully got to the other side without an animal charging at us.
I received mixed reactions from friends when I told them I was going on holiday to Romania. Yes, it’s off the beaten track, but the biggest surprise is why. When it comes to natural beauty, history and culture, it has it in spades, easily rivalling the more popular European destinations. But what sets Romania apart is that it hasn’t fallen victim to over-tourism. And if you’re going on a walking holiday, this is music to your ears as the trails are mostly empty.
The tour is aptly named Medieval Castles and Villages of Transylvania and the itinerary promised 84km of walking in six days. The actual distance was 119km, which is very doable for the average hiker. The trails took us through medieval Saxon towns and villages in the southern part of Transylvania. The Saxons settled in this area in the 12th century, and despite many of them leaving after the second World War, their cultural legacy endures.
For the first three nights of the trip, we stayed in Badiu’s Guesthouse in Rășinari, a charming Saxon home with signature “eye” windows. The guest house’s rustic comfort, cosy rooms and vibrant garden were the perfect retreat after a day spent in the hills. Run by the welcoming Mr and Mrs Badiu, the hospitality was top-notch despite my non-existent Romanian and their lack of English. “Deutsch?” Mr. Badiu asked me hopefully. I instantly regretted saying I had “a little” when my bad Leaving Cert German failed me. Out came Google Translate, and soon we arranged dinner prepared by Mrs Badiu. Her cooking was outstanding, and every evening she delivered a hearty three-course meal, including dishes such as sour soups, sausage stew and Hungarian goulash – the perfect reward after a long day of hiking.
The following morning we set off from Badiu’s, walking through the stone-cobbled streets of Rășinari. The sleepy village was worlds away from what you might expect from a gateway to such a stunning mountain range. Refreshingly, there were no tourist shops or restaurants, just a quiet, old-world charm. Locals shared the day’s news on street corners while farmers drove by in horses and carts. It’s the kind of place you can feel the curious gaze of the locals. Despite that, everyone was very friendly. Several times, I noticed car keys left in the ignition, a nostalgic reminder of Ireland in bygone years. The streets were lined with neatly stacked walls of chopped wood as the locals prepared for the harsh winter ahead. Yet the weather was still summery in September, reaching the high 20s daily.
The air was crisp and fresh, a freshness you only experience in the mountains. We followed the path out of the town, through farmland and into a mature forest, where a stream guided us into Cisnădioara. Perched on a hill overlooking the town is a beautifully preserved forfeited church built in the 12th century. An informative audio tour is available using a QR code, and the panoramic view from the top made the extra climb worth the effort.
After that, we went through a forest before tackling a steep uphill climb for more than an hour, following what looked like a dry river bed. The terrain was mucky and rocky, making the ascent even more challenging, especially under the relentless heat of the midday sun. We arrived at a clearing just in time for our packed lunch. As I scoffed my sandwich, I took in the view: rolling green hills sprinkled with woolly sheep and the distinctive, triangular-shaped shepherds’ huts. We returned to Rășinari through the Roma village of Prislop, where excited kids greeted us. The ramshackle homes illustrated the social and economic challenges that the Roma community faces.
The next day, we travelled by transfer to Păltiniș, Romania’s highest ski resort. We began our hike uphill beneath the eerily still chairlift, soon entering a dense spruce plantation that lacked the vibrancy of the native forests we had walked through the day before. After 1½ hours, we reached the summit (1,720m), and that’s when I spotted a sign warning us about the vipers. I hadn’t realised that Romania had snakes, never mind venomous vipers – yet another creature to add to my list of concerns.
The second part of this day was rewarding, with hours of walking against the most spectacular backdrop of the trip. The rugged peaks of the Carpathians layered one behind the other, with deep valleys in between. There were more sheep and triangular huts; the only person we met on the trail was an elderly shepherd and his dog. With a staff in hand, he wore the traditional wide-brimmed felt hat that seemed to balance effortlessly on his head. We attempted to communicate, but the language barrier hit again, and without Google Translate available, we resorted to gestures. He understood my request for a photo, which he graciously agreed to, and we continued on our way.
The walking schedule for the third day was light, allowing us plenty of time and energy to explore the impressive Astra Museum and the beautiful city of Sibiu. Astra is one of the largest open-air museums in Europe, housing more than 400 traditional buildings, including windmills and churches, from various regions of Romania. Each structure has been preserved and carefully relocated from its original site. The museum features workshops and exhibitions, and the few hours I spent felt far too short to appreciate everything it offered.
It was a pleasant, flat 6km walk through a forest into the Saxon city of Sibiu. We arrived suitably ravenous and enjoyed some hearty Turkish food in our Old Town hotel. After fuelling, we set about pounding the pavement of Sibiu, known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and charming squares. The old town is divided into two levels; the upper levels feature most historic sights, conveniently located in three interlocking squares. The lower level boasts colourful old houses and cobbled streets. The two levels are connected by stairways, bridges and tunnels, making exploring fun. The city was clean and uncrowded, and the sun-drenched squares were alive with market stalls, street performers and plenty of outdoor diners.
[ Romania produces great wine too: Four bottles to tasteOpens in new window ]
The following day, as we walked a dusty path from the village of Richis, I saw my first Beware of the Bears sign. I was slightly comforted that it specified “after sunset” and relieved they might be too sleepy to bother us during the day’s heat. We hiked through lush countryside in a portion of the 1,400km Via Transilvanica trail before seeing the town of Biertan appear in the valley below. With its terracotta roofs and remarkable fortified church towering above, Biertan looked like something out of a fairy-tale. The church dates back to 1468, and its turrets and towers look more like a castle. The “Prison for Quarrelling Couples” was an innovative way of dealing with marital issues; the couple was put in a room for several days with one of each of the necessities, from a single pillow to a lone table setting. Make or break, I suppose.
The following night, we stayed in Mălâncrav, a village with the highest proportion of Saxons in any town in Transylvania. As we descended from the hills, we stopped at the Lutheran fortified church, where a choir practised hymns in German. One of the staff there kindly guided us to our accommodation, a restored Saxon house maintained by a preservation trust. That night, it felt like sleeping in a very comfortable museum. If only those walls could talk.
[ Kill or confine? Italy and Romania wrestle with bear attacks responseOpens in new window ]
Thankfully, it was only on the last day that we got close to a bear – sort of. Near Sighisoara, we stumbled across a massive pile of bear poo, still steaming! A few hundred meters later, a fresh paw print greeted us. We instantly picked up the pace, practically speed-walking into the medieval town of Sighisoara, famously the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration for Dracula, adding an eerie allure took the town’s historic charm. Just when I thought we had made it safely, my phone blared an emergency alert: there was a bear in town. Arriving in one piece was sweeter – and luckier- than I’d thought.
[ Vlad Tidings - Frank McNally on the wild side of TransylvaniaOpens in new window ]
Deirdre Mullins was a guest of The Natural Adventure on the Medieval Castles and Villages of Transylvania tour. Prices start from €910 and the tour is available from May to October. For more information and to book, please visit thenaturaladventure.com
