Croatia has for many years been beloved by tourists from Ireland. Dubrovnik and Split are popular destinations for Irish holidaymakers, and Hvar is part of the regular path beaten by interrailers who venture to the Croatian island to party.
But with the popularity of these areas, many of us may have missed out on a region in Croatia that is well worth a visit. On the northwest coast, the mountainous peninsula of Istria has a different feel from its southern neighbours, with a more Italian vibe. For centuries Istria was under the control of the Venetian Republic, and an Italian influence is evident in its architecture and particularly its food.
You won’t be in Istria long before you come across signs for truffles. Other than in Italy, Istria is one of the only regions where white truffles grow naturally. The region is abundant in black truffles also, but as we learn, these can be cultivated. Truffles tend to have a Marmite effect on people but love them or loathe them, until you’ve eaten them fresh it’s impossible to make an informed decision.
On a weekend visit to Croatia in October, we stay in Rovinj, a pretty and charming coastal town, and take a day trip to a family-owned truffle farm, Prodan Tartufi, an hour north of Rovinj, where hosts Mirko and Visnja offer a three-course truffle-themed lunch in beautiful surroundings overlooking their farm. We also venture on a truffle hunt through the woods with one of their five trained dogs.
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We follow Skye, the Italian water dog, through their forests and watch as he races around sniffing under trees before eventually starting to dig. His owner has to race to retrieve the truffle undamaged before Skye devours it. The dogs love truffles and want to keep them for themselves. We finish by visiting the farm shop and leave with far too much. Overall, it’s a really enjoyable, different and educational way to spend a golden sunny autumn afternoon.
Less than an hour’s drive south of here is Chiavalon, a family farm specialising in growing olives and producing high-quality extra virgin oil. Here you can have a free olive oil tasting in their olive mill or book one of their guided tasting tours. They have 13,000 olive trees on their estate, but they also have contracted cultivators who harvest another 13,000 for them.
Tedi Chiavolon gives the tours and tells us how, after his grandfather died, he and his brother planted 100 olive trees in his honour. This has grown to a business that employs up to 80 people and supports the local economy. As a person who loves good olive oil, but knew little about the process of producing it, this is a fun couple of hours.
Rovinj has more than its share of great restaurants, including a two-star Michelin, two one-stars and a Michelin-recommended one. It’s a good indication of how seriously they take their food. Croatia’s only two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Agli Amici Rovinj was awarded its first star within three months of opening in 2022, but unfortunately was not open during our visit.
On a happier note, chef Jeffrey Vella’s one-star Cap Aureo, based in the Grand Park Hotel, is offering a special tasting menu, with a pairing of local wines, as part of Maistra’s Autumn Gastro Week. Nine stunning courses showcase local ingredients including truffles, artichokes and lots of fresh seafood. The amazing view over the old town tops off a fabulous experience.
If you’re in a search of a cocktail, meanwhile, in the liBARry, head barman Aleksandar Jović takes inspiration for his cocktails from famous novels, including Ulysses and The Old Man and the Sea.
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During our stay we also dine at Brasserie Adriatic, in the boutique Adriatic hotel based in the historic centre, where more than 100 unique works of art are on show, all by Croatian artists. And we have dinner in Kantinon Tavern, a former wine cellar, which appears to be equally popular with locals and tourists. Cold cuts with Istrian sausages and cheeses are served on wooden boards with Istrian olive oil and olives. Or you can sample authentic local dishes such as oven-baked octopus or Istrian gnocchi with beef ragout.
The narrow cobblestone streets of the old town are pedestrianised, so a walking tour is the best way to explore. The old town was an island until 1763, when the narrow channel that separated it from the mainland was filled in to create a peninsula. As the town is officially bilingual, the traditional Italian placenames are preserved.
The baroque Church of St Euphemia is on a hilltop in the old town and worth a visit. It holds the tomb of the early fourth-century patron saint of the town. For €4, you can access the 17th-century bell tower and its 360-degree views of the terracotta roofs, surrounding islands and sparkling Adriatic. On a clear day they say you can even see the Alps.
It is well worth climbing the 189 steep and uneven wooden steps. And there are lots of lovely swimming spots close by, if you need to cool down afterwards. Nearby the small Batana House Eco Museum is dedicated to the traditional wooden batàna fishing boat, used in Rovinj for centuries, and the memory of the Rovinj community.
Rovinj is a paradise for foodies, with no shortage of places to eat, many of them on the water with views of the hard-to-beat Adriatic sunset. It offers exceptional value for money, both in the local taverns but also in the Michelin stars. And on the doorstep of Croatia’s most prestigious wine region it offers an abundance of delicious, good value local wines.
It is surrounded by islands and beaches. Even in the old town, steps to the sea have been built everywhere to provide easy access for swimming. The best time to visit – when the weather is still pleasant but the crowds are fewer – in September or May. But even in October we were treated to blue skies and highs of 18 degrees, making it perfect weather for walking, exploring and, for those of us used to colder climates, swimming. It is a destination that can be enjoyed with family, as a couple, or by yourself.
Getting there
The two closest airports are Pula and Trieste. From Pula airport, it’s a 35-minute drive to Rovinj. Alternatively, a shuttle bus runs into Pula’s town centre and from there it’s 45 minutes to Rovinj by bus. For those who prefer to fly direct, Venice, with several flights a day from Aer Lingus and Ryanair, is a good option and only a three-hour drive. There’s also a catamaran service between Venice and Rovinj in the summer (adriatic-lines.com). Rovinj’s largely pedestrianised old town is small and easy to get around on foot.
Where to stay
- Grand Park Maistra. Prices start from €318 for a premium park view room for two people. In 2025, The Grand Park became the first hotel in Croatia to earn a place on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Hotels 2025 list.
- Family Hotel Amarin Rovinj Istria, from €271 for a classic room for two people.
- Maistra camping in Rovinj and Vrsar, Pitches from €30 for two people per night.
Where to eat
- Cap Aureo, Grand Park Hotel
- Adriatic Brasserie
- Kantinon Taven
- Tekka by Lone
Anna Kenny was a guest of Maistra (maistra.com)
