Jordan leads the fashion pack in London

Fashion week opened with two very different collections

Zoe Jordan's fifth collection: the casual tunic shape in knit, digital print or silk, proved a key piece. photographs: gavin fuller/pa wire; ian gavan/getty images
Zoe Jordan's fifth collection: the casual tunic shape in knit, digital print or silk, proved a key piece. photographs: gavin fuller/pa wire; ian gavan/getty images

Fashion week opened with two very different collections

Up-and-coming London-based shoe designer Liam Fahy, whose father is from Doonane in Galway, grew up on a snake farm in Zimbabwe and wanted to make shoes from the age of 14. Having studied footwear design at the De Montfort University in the UK, he trained with the shoe design supremo Rupert Sanderson in Italy and his first collection, launched in 2011, earned the praise of Manolo Blahnik, marking him out as a talent to watch. His shoes are handmade in Padua in limited editions. Many of the designs draw inspiration from his African background, while others are curvaceous in line, mix leather with metal or are innovative reinterpretations of vintage film noir styles. He has won many awards including NewGen sponsorship from the British Fashion Council and shows twice yearly in London and Paris. See liamfahy.com.

Currently working on Burberry’s corporate responsibility team in London, Kellie Dalton from Dublin’s north side originally left Ireland to work with designer Katherine Hamnett in London, the so-called “green godmother” of fashion. “It changed my view of fashion and the world,” she says.

That experience led her to found Re-Dress ( re-dress.ie), a fashion initiative aimed at raising awareness of ethical and environmental issues affecting the industry, on home turf in Ireland in 2008.

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Since then she has worked with a number of high-profile clients including fashion brand Cos as a corporate responsibility consultant.

Fiercely passionate about playing a part in making the world a better place to live through the medium of fashion, she has just launched her own sustainable fashion blog kelliedalton.com.

The sunny weather was an auspicious start to London Fashion Week. First off was the Irish-born, London-based designer Zoe Jordan, daughter of racing driver Eddie Jordan, with her fifth collection, which was called Foundations.

The collection was notable for its graphic, clean-cut trouser suits in knobby wools, mannish grey flannel and monochrome tweed.

A key piece was the casual tunic shape in knit, digital print or silk. The models’ tousled pony tails reinforced the collection’s overall relaxed, sporty look.

Dreamier and more romantic were the soft white beaded and ruffled lace dresses, some corseted, by Turkish designer Bora Aksu, who mixed layers of tulle and prim little collars and ties on balloon and tent dresses with a modern vaudevillian edge.

The dynamic founder of the online luxury shopping empire Net-a-Porter, Natalie Massenet, launched the event in her new role as chairwoman of the British Fashion Council.

Along with the council’s chief executive Caroline Rush, she has forged an ambitious five “pillar” business strategy for the industry and secured the support of British prime minister David Cameron and his wife Samantha, who hosted a reception in Downing Street last night.

“We have the talent here and it has been our strength for decades,” said Massenet.

“We will capitalise on our creativity by strengthening its foundations and make London the most exciting fashion capital in the world.”

Speaking at the launch, British minister for culture Ed Vaizey endorsed the four-year plan, which covers areas such as investment, business support, education and building industry partnerships across Europe, Asia and developing countries.

“I am absolutely passionate about fashion – it is not only important to the economy and the GDP of this country, but it has the huge value of putting Britain on the map worldwide,” he said.

More than 56 catwalk shows are scheduled to take place during the event, of which 21 will be broadcast live on YouTube, showing the growing fusion of fashion and digital media. Stalwarts on the official schedule such as Burberry, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Kane will be joined by designers Tom Ford and L’Wren Scott while pop diva Rihanna will show her River Island collection tonight. Recipients of the fashion council’s NewGen sponsorship, Irish designers Simone Rocha and JW Anderson, will also be presenting catwalk shows.

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan

Deirdre McQuillan is Irish Times Fashion Editor, a freelance feature writer and an author