It's that time of year . . . when in me thou see'st the glowing of such fire, / That on the ashes of his youth doth lie. Well, not yet.
But it might apply to some of the bachelors who traditionally gather in Lisdoonvara, Co Clare, in September each year in pursuit of women and lost youth. One can be as difficult to get a hoult on as the other.
Lios Dúin Bhearna, means the fort (lios/dun) of the gap (bearna). The lios/dun refers to an earthen fort at Lissateeaun (fort of the fairy hill) about three kilometres northeast of the town, near an old Norman castle.
Lisdoonvarna itself is a mere youth among Irish towns and dates only from the early 19th century. Regardless, for the best part of 150 years they’ve had what has been billed as “one of the largest matchmaking festivals in Europe”.
The prelude to it all was the discovery of a spa. Rich in iron, sulphur and magnesium, the waters gave relief from the symptoms of certain diseases including rheumatism and glandular fever, which indicates why it has always attracted people of a certain age. The Spa Hotel was the centre around which the town developed.
September became the peak month of its holiday season when, with the hay saved, turf home, and harvest in, “young” bachelors can roam free. So to speak. And others besides.
By the 1920s the town was being described as a place “where parish priests pretend to be sober and bank clerks pretend to be drunk”. That was then. Both priests and bankers would be very sober these days.
These days too most people go there just for the craic and in the month of September dances run there from noon each day into the small hours of the next morning. Set dancing strongly features with live Irish music in most pubs. And not many counties do Irish music as well as they do in Clare.
However it is not for matchmaking Lisdoonvarna would be most famed where many people are concerned these days. They would be familiar with it from the Christy Moore song Lisdoonvarna, truly a classic from the town's festival days which ended in 1983.
". . . Arab sheiks, Hindu Sikhs, Jesus freaks,
RTÉ are makin' tapes, takin' breaks and throwin' shapes.
This is heaven, this is hell.
Who cares? Who can tell?
(Anyone for the last few choc ices, now?)" inaword@irishtimes.com
