Next month sees the 80th anniversary of the legendary little black dress created by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel whose legacy continues to endure thanks to the unstoppable creativity of Karl Lagerfeld.
Yesterday under the cupola of the Grand Palais in Paris, on a catwalk shrouded in Japanese screens concealing the changing area normally located backstage, he sent forth a beautiful and romantic spring collection in which little dresses - either black or white and anchored with opulent gold chain belts and jewellery - seemed to capture the heart of Chanel's quintessential style.
Hemlines were short, dresses were often nothing more than belted tunics in filmy fabrics with flattering front panels, sporty racer backs or flirty little bustles with the odd scattering of lingerie lace. There was hardly a trouser in sight and if it was, it was rock star skinny like the skimpy black sequined hotpants that opened the show.
For daywear, jackets tended to be curvy rather than boxy, holding sheer fabrics in check. For a city girl, a standout black suit had lapels and cuffs that were as white as the buttoned shirt underneath. If the clothes had upscale polish, the accessories, like the belts of thin gold chains or racks of thick bracelets, added extra shine and glitter to a goddess dress or a white summer jacket. A gilt-edged collection in every sense.
Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent lined his catwalk with a thick floral carpet of fresh violets which looked lovely, but proved treacherous for the models who continually slipped on its spongy surface. Pilati continues to give the brand his own signature and opened the show with a series of swing coats, chic shirtwaister dresses and skirt suits in graphic black and white tablecloth checks. Along with a red raincoat with matching floppy hat, it all looked fresh, smart and urban.
Less flattering were the cuffed baggy trousers that a lot of women find difficult to wear. Along with Ottoman-style patterned silks and turbans, the look may have been a reference to the house's heritage, but a black skirt with a stone jacket or a bib-fronted cotton smock were more appealing alternatives. When it comes to dressing for the night, Pilati's confections were dreamy and sophisticated, from sporty vests crusted with gold jewellery to filmy full-length violet chiffons.
