Sir, - Trevor White’s critique of the Michelin Guide’s “star-chasing” correctly highlights the disconnect between elite dining and the reality of food poverty in Ireland (“I am a recovering restaurant critic and here’s why the Michelin hullabaloo makes me feel queasy”, Opinion, February 9th). However, in focusing solely on the “Oscars” of the restaurant world, he overlooks the very categories that address his concerns regarding accessibility and value.
The vast majority of the Michelin Guide is not composed of starred institutions, but of “Recommended” restaurants and “Bib Gourmand” recipients. These awards specifically celebrate quality cooking at moderate prices. Establishments like 3 Leaves in Blackrock, south Dublin, or Bigfan in Dublin city centre, provide exceptional, real-world food in casual settings that are a far cry from the “elite cuisine” White describes.
While the razzmatazz of the stars grabs the headlines, the Guide’s true value for the average Irish diner lies in these more accessible recognitions. By dismissing the entire Guide as “supersize drivel”, we ignore the hardworking chefs across Ireland who provide high-quality food to their communities at realistic prices every day. - Yours, etc,
PETER HUNTER,
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Ard Bracken,
Rathdrum,
Co Wicklow.
