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Hidden gems and unmissable sights from Kinsale to Galway

The Wild Atlantic Way has resulted in a huge increase in visitors to Ireland’s stunning western seaboard

Make the most of summer on the Limerick Greenway, a scenic 40km off-road route between Rathkeale and Abbeyfeale. Photograph: True Media
Make the most of summer on the Limerick Greenway, a scenic 40km off-road route between Rathkeale and Abbeyfeale. Photograph: True Media

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way touring route is 10 years old this year. If that’s hard to believe, back then it would have been harder still to predict just how wildly successful a simple branding exercise could be.

Thanks to Fáilte Ireland’s fiendishly effective mix of smart signage and even smarter marketing, almost two million more tourists visited the western seaboard last year than did in 2013, the year before its launch.

That, in turn, has helped to generate €3 billion in tourist revenues a year, up 58 per cent in a decade, supporting an estimated 35,000 additional tourism jobs across the region. And what a region – 2,500 glorious kilometres of coastal roads from Kinsale Harbour to Malin Head, all jam packed with things to see and do.

Kinsale, at the most southerly point of the Wild Atlantic Way, boasts some of the best places to eat in Ireland
Kinsale, at the most southerly point of the Wild Atlantic Way, boasts some of the best places to eat in Ireland

Whether you want to attempt all of it or just take bite-sized chunks, whether you want to be guided by official “signature” and “discovery” points along the way, or simply indulge your appetite for great places to eat, drink and stay, there are endless ways to enjoy it.

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Start at its southernmost point in Kinsale, the gourmet’s favourite. Not alone does Co Cork’s uber chic town have some of the best restaurants and cafes in the country, but you can stay right on the waterfront either at the Trident or Actons hotels.

Both properties provide great dining options. The Trident’s Wharf Tavern has a unique nautical feel, thanks to input from a local yacht designer. It features portholes, decking and rope-wound galleon masts, and serves locally sourced seafood and seasonal produce.

In Actons Hotel, Sidney’s Bar and Garden Lounge combines a cosy atmosphere with contemporary Irish cuisine and local ingredients. Or dine out in local restaurants such as Fishy Fishy, Bastion and The Black Pig Winebar.

A luxury harbour suite with private balcony at the Trident Hotel in Kinsale
A luxury harbour suite with private balcony at the Trident Hotel in Kinsale

For shoppers, the town is peppered with independent boutiques and artisan stores, including crafts, handmade jewellery and local art, while history buffs can storm Charles Fort, Kinsale’s star-shaped 17th century fortress, which offers panoramic views.

The Kinsale Regional Museum provides a deeper dive into the town’s nautical past while gems such as Desmond Castle and International Museum of Wine offer a history of the wine trade – and of piracy – in the town.

Kinsale’s narrow streets and alleyways are great for wandering and there are plenty of scenic walks and trails, including the Scilly Walk, which offers gorgeous harbour views.

Or drive out to the Old Head of Kinsale, which stretches 3km into the Atlantic. Explore its dramatic cliffs and ocean vistas, visit the Lusitania Museum, which commemorates the sinking of the ocean liner by a German U-boat in 1915, or tee off at Old Head Golf Links, one of the world’s most spectacular golf courses.

The town is also a great base from which to travel along the Wild Atlantic Way, to explore the craggy clifftops of Mizen Head and take the famous cable car across beautiful Dursey Sound to Dursey Island.

The heritage towns of Cobh and Youghal are all within easy reach. Or stay closer to Cork city centre at the Kingsley Hotel, which has great spa facilities, or at Fota Island Resort, perfect for visiting the neighbouring wildlife park.

Continuing north, stop off in Dingle for ceol agus caint before taking the scenic Slea Head drive. Take the opportunity to visit the Blasket or Skellig Islands, the latter, 11km off the Iveragh Peninsula, now forever associated with Star Wars.

Base yourself in Killarney to make the most of the Kingdom’s mountainous interior while still being within easy reach of the coast. The town is chock-full restaurants that are perfect for refuelling after a fun day’s touring, including Tango Street Food, the Mad Monk restaurant by Quinlans, a seafood specialist, Murphy Browne’s, Fiadh and Lúna, a popular coffee, deli and wine bar.

Stay in the heart of things at The Brehon, a swish property with a lovely mix of hotel and self-catering accommodation, plus great food offering including Danú, its restaurant, and the light bites and cocktails of its Brehon Bar. Its beautiful Anú Spa is a wonderful way to relax after a strenuous day’s touring.

Killarney's Brehon Hotel, a swish property with a mix of hotel and self-catering accommodation
Killarney's Brehon Hotel, a swish property with a mix of hotel and self-catering accommodation

For shoppers, Killarney Outlet Centre, Quills Woollen Market, Christy’s Irish Stores and Kerry Crafted Glass are all must sees. For heritage buffs it’s all about Ross Castle on the shores of Lough Leane, Muckcross House and Gardens, and Muckross Traditional Farms, all just up the road.

As a city with gateway status to the Wild Atlantic Way, Limerick is another great place from which to base yourself, giving you easy access to some of the most famous sites along the route as well as loads of great accommodation options.

There’s also lots to see and do, including a tour along the Shannon Estuary Way, a spectacular drive showcasing the meeting of the Shannon and Atlantic. It’s a 200km looped driving route that links the Wild Atlantic Way between Kerry and Clare, giving you three counties in one day, plus scenic highlights such as Bleach Lough, a great fishing spot, the fabulous estuary views at Ringmoylan Pier, and family fun at Stonehall Wildlife Park at Curraghchase.

With Adare Manor hosting the Ryder Cup in 2027, Limerick is well established as a stopping-off point for those who wish to stay and play, whether it’s golf here or at Lahinch, an easy drive away in Clare, or mountain biking at Ballyhoura Forest. From Limerick city you can be at the Cliffs of Moher in Clare, or on the beach at Ballyheigue in Kerry, in an hour and a quarter.

In the meantime, make the most of this buzzing spot. With 25,000 students, it has all the vibrancy you’d expect from a university town – or, as its current marketing campaign puts it, “a different kind of energy”.

King John's Castle in Limerick, which dates from the 13th century, has a terrific interactive exhibition
King John's Castle in Limerick, which dates from the 13th century, has a terrific interactive exhibition

As well as great pubs, restaurants and markets, there are historic sites such as 13th century King John’s Castle, which has a terrific interactive exhibition, all the artworks and artefacts of the Hunt Museum, or the sporting thrills of the International Rugby Experience.

Or get out and enjoy the countryside on the Limerick Greenway, a scenic 40km off-road experience, from Rathkeale to Abbeyfeale. Hire a bike and enjoy the rich heritage, biodiversity and local hospitality of the beautiful west Limerick countryside.

Continuing northwards, keep an eye out for bottlenose dolphins in the mouth of the Shannon while making for Loop Head, en route to the Cliffs of Moher, one of the most visited tourist spots on the island and voted Ireland’s most Instagrammable location.

Sandra O'Connell

Sandra O'Connell

Sandra O'Connell is a contributor to The Irish Times