Galway isn’t just a terrific destination in itself, it’s the midway point of the Wild Atlantic Way. Start your journey north with a little R&R in the City of Tribes before taking the ferry to the Aran Islands or exploring the Connemara coast.
Stretch your legs along the green road overlooking Killary Fjord and then it’s on to Mayo and gorgeous Clew Bay. For the best view of its stunning coastline, and its 365 islands – one for every day of the year – climb to the top of Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s magical, mystical mountain, a job made easier by its lovely new steps.
Then come back down and take the boat over to the largest of these, Clare Island, birthplace of pirate queen Grace O’Malley. Stay at the island’s 200-year-old lighthouse, a prestigious Blue Book member which combines beautifully designed interiors with stunning views.
If you can’t get there over the summer, don’t despair – it’s now open until early December, making it a magnet for storm watchers from all over the world.
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Clare Island Lighthouse has recently changed up its booking policies too, allowing for B&B overnights that make it a more affordable and accessible option than ever before. If there’s a group of you and you book more than four rooms, you get the entire place to yourself.
Clare Island is a haven for walking, swimming and birdwatching, with electric bikes available to rent and a great cafe, a bar and even a bakery-cum-pizzeria in summer.
Back on the mainland, don’t miss the opportunity to experience the new visitor centre at the Céide Fields, north Mayo’s unique Neolithic archaeological site, which features ancient field systems and habitations.
Hidden beneath the blanket of bog, it is the most extensive Stone Age monument in the world, giving evidence of how early farmers worked the land almost 6,000 years ago.
To make the most of this beautiful part of the world, stay in gorgeous Mount Falcon Estate, situated right on the banks of the River Moy, near Ballina.
It’s a terrific base from which to explore some of the most stunning scenery along the Wild Atlantic Way, whether meandering through Yeats country in the shadow of Ben Bulben in Co Sligo or standing in awe of the cliffs at Sliabh Liag in Donegal.
And if your idea of adventure is best interspersed with afternoon tea, spa treatments and a pint in a cosy snug, you won’t do better than this 19th century wooded estate turned four-star hotel.
Guests can make an entire getaway on the estate alone, taking advantage of on-site falconry, spa and leisure centre, clay-pigeon shooting, fishing on a two-mile stretch of managed banks, or just enjoying walks around this 100-acre property.
In the shoulder season guests eat in the converted Kitchen Restaurant inside the manor house, but from June through August cocktails and dining move out on to the lawn next to the fruit orchard, with a beautifully atmospheric – and heated – bamboo tent.
Ballina is just up the road and offers a variety of shops, from clothing to gifts and department stores, as well as cultural destinations such as Ballina Arts Centre and the wonderful historical artefacts of the Jackie Clarke Collection. The National Museum of Country Life, the only National Museum of Ireland site outside Dublin, is just a half-hour’s drive from Mount Falcon.
Meanwhile, back on the coast, head to Achill Island for beach fun on Keem Bay, to admire the cliffs or to explore the haunting Deserted Village nearby.
Further north, don’t miss Downpatrick Head, named for St Patrick himself, and along whose cliffs remain the ruins of a church he founded in the fifth century.
From there it’s on up to Sligo, home to some of Ireland’s best surfing beaches – and post-surf cafes, bars and restaurants. Hug the coast from Strandhill to Mullaghmore Head, where you can test your board skills against 50-foot waves or, better still, watch others while you picnic onshore.
To make the most of all the activities on offer here, the super family friendly Sligo Park Hotel and Leisure Club is a great option.
It’s a fabulous location from which to enjoy Sligo town’s first-class places to eat and drink, including Eala Bhán, located by the Garavogue River, a local favourite offering modern Irish cuisine and fresh seafood. For a more casual dining experience, Lyons Café and Bakeshop offers home-made treats and hearty lunches in a charming, vintage setting.
Stepping into Thomas Connolly’s pub is like taking a step back in time, with original wooden fittings and vintage decor.
There’s great shopping in Sligo too, including the Cat and the Moon for handcrafted Irish jewellery and crafts, Sligo Market every Saturday, a treasure trove of local crafts, and Strandhill people’s Market, which is held every Sunday.
Sligo Park Hotel and Leisure Club is the perfect place to rest up after a day spent exploring such sites as Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, home to the oldest and largest collections of stone circles and dolmens in Ireland. Other must-sees include the striking Classiebawn Castle, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean, and Lissadell House, seat of the Gore-Booths.
Glencar Waterfall, which inspired Yeats’s poem The Stolen Child, and the Hazelwood Demesne, a beautiful woodland area with scenic walking trails along the shores of Lough Gill, are nearby too, and don’t miss the Fairy Glen at Knocknarea Mountain, or the Caves of Keash, both of which are steeped in folklore.
Sligo Park Hotel is also a great base for those looking to reach the northern most elements of the Wild Atlantic Way. That includes viewing Sliabh Liag, the highest sea cliffs in Europe, on a fun boat trip from Teelin.
Once back on shore it’s a scenic drive to Fanad Head, stopping for a dip in Ballymastocker Bay, and a tour of Fanad Lighthouse, then on to Ireland’s most northerly point, Malin Head, to see the watchtower at Banba’s Crown, named for a goddess.
It’s a fittingly regal end to a tour so epic, and with so many things to see, do and experience, that you’ll just have to head south again to try to fit it all in.
