Ulster Football Championship: A ramshackle, haughty old town that never lets any of its visitors become too proud. Perhaps the Armagh faithful have traipsed through its dark and secretive streets with too much ease and happiness in recent times.
It is, after all, the home place of Monaghan. Yesterday Joe Kernan brought his All-Ireland champions up the road and all his misgivings were confirmed in front of a crowd of 18,629.
Dramatic as this result was, Armagh's grasp has only slackened on the silverware they have held with reverence since last September but they have not been silenced.
Monaghan's superb victory opens up an Ulster scene that Armagh might, in a few weeks time, discover themselves as well liberated of. Every time they stepped out against a provincial neighbour in this seething cauldron of a venue, they would be involving themselves in a pitch battle of attrition and pride. Now, the path ahead is clear. They must defend their All-Ireland title by travelling unknown highways. The roulette will bring the counties it will bring.
For Monaghan, the delights remain more local. This was a significant date in the medium term history of a county that found itself ignored for too long.
It was the composure of their display that impressed as much as the result. Monaghan refused to be bossed or intimidated, breaking away from the parade early, languishing in the dressing room at half time for so long that an exasperated Michael Curley returned to the dressing room and demanded their presence. Even when Damien Freeman was dismissed in dubious circumstances after just 45 minutes, they never blinked. This was a new Monaghan, ice cool and unwavering.
Some things you can't legislate for. On his debut, free kicker Paul Finlay landed eight frees, the last three magnificent as they put Monaghan in the realms of dreamland. A son of 80s dead ball specialist Ciaran, the younger Finlay's form was well-touted. But it was an auspicious hello to big-time football. Against that, Armagh's boys of the summer gone - Oisin McConville and Ronan Clarke - were drafted in from the bench and finished with no brackets after their names. That will not happen again this season.
It was those who laboured through so many thankless days for Monaghan that especially stood out. The energetic Nicholas Corrigan and midfielder Jason Hughes were immense. Pauric McKenna kept a firm paw around the bag of tricks that is Stephen McDonnell and captain Dermot Duffy had a slyly brilliant game along the right flank, quietly imposing himself on countless small, significant passages of play.
One moment stood out. After 48 minutes, Tony McEntee fired a long, high point to bring the champions within a single point of 14-man Monaghan. There followed the inevitable period of pressure. With Aidan O'Rourke and the McEntee brothers running in waves through the Monaghan back line, it appeared as if something had to give. Armagh broke along the end line and Oisin McConville squared a ball that looked destined for awaiting orange shirts. Out of the blue arrived full-forward Ronan Ronaghan to cradle the ball to safety. A minute later, the forward was back up field, winning a free. Finlay landed it and with that score Monaghan grew more bold and admirable as every minute passed.
In reviewing this game, Armagh can attach a sense of fatalism to it. Kieran McGeeney led his team onto the field wearing his trademark number six jersey but afterwards retired to the stands, injured and unable to play. It was a wistful gesture by Armagh and an acknowledgement of the immeasurable presence of the man on this team. Whether his absence was the cause or not, it was a forgettable 70 minutes for Armagh.
On 20 minutes, Stevie McDonnell - his lightning movement conspicuous in a leaden orange attack - grabbed a flicked ball from Barry O'Hagan but somehow rapped his goal shot off the post when a score seemed easier. A few minutes later, Diarmuid Marsden got a fist to the ball in front of an exposed Monaghan goal but it skipped wide.
At the crucial period of the second half, they were denied goals that fell their way on better days. Monaghan, meantime, were as thrifty as they were full of guile. A pair of Philip Loughran points - the only pleasant surprises that fell the way of the champions - left the game at 0-11 to 0-9 with 64 minutes left. For Monaghan, it was still a precarious situation. But Colm Coyle sent in Rory Woods and his first act was to win a sprint for the ball around halfway and subsequently a free that saw Andy McCann dismissed for a second yellow. Seconds later, Finlay landed a monster of a free and finally, the long oppressed followers from the drumlin county dared to believe. This was no classic but it was a day that won't be forgotten in this region. The All-Ireland champions aren't out but they are out of Ulster. Uncaged.
Clones has had her way again.
MONAGHAN: G Murphy; JP Mone, P McKenna, D McKenna; V Corey, J Coyle, D Duffy; E Lennon, J Hughes; N Corrigan (0-2), T Freeman, P Finlay (0-8, frees); M Slowey (0-1), R Ronaghan (0-2), D Freeman. Subs:A Rooney for N Corrigan (61 mins), R Woods for M Slowey (65).
ARMAGH: P Hearty; A Mallon, J McNulty, F Bellew; P McCormack, A O'Rourke, A McCann; J Toal, P McGrane; P McKeever (0-1, free), J McEntee, T McEntee (0-1); S McDonnell (0-3, 2 frees), B O'Hagan, D Marsden (0-2). Subs: O McConville for B O'Hagan (34 mins), R Clarke for P McKeever (47 mins), P Loughran (0-2) for J Toal (56 mins).
Referee: M Curley (Galway).
