The township of Soweto in South Africa may not be instantly recognisable as a big golfing location, but the game has been played there - township style - for years.

Fana Joseph Mthembu used to place an old jam tin in a dusty field in his neighbourhood in order to earn a few cents after school. Fana, who was then 12 years old, was too young to play. The jam tins, supporting a stick, were the targets for the legion of older golfers who would spend the afternoons either sharing one old golf club or a carefully crafted metal pipe which vaguely resembled a golf club. Those images of Seve relentlessly belting balls on the beach at Santander with his one club sound positively luxurious in comparison.

The township has yet to produce as good a golfer as Ballesteros. It has, however, given us an abundance of caddies. Golf's original "Tiger" was the first caddie in Soweto to own a BMW. He is a legend in the township, having earned his reputation carrying Nick Price's bag throughout Southern Africa for over two decades.

There are two golfers from Soweto currently playing on the South African circuit, although Norman Mashaba and Theo Mannyama have yet to make an impression on the Order of Merit.

For as long as South African golfers have been coming over to play the European Tour, caddies have followed. Traditionally, these caddies were friends, members of the same clubs, and many of them were good golfers. The Afrikaner golfers enjoyed having a fellow countryman on the bag in order to converse in their native tongue. Black caddies did not travel further than their country's borders.

At 13 years of age, Fana Joseph took his caddying skills to the exclusive Houghton country club in the suburbs of Johannesburg. He looked five years older than he actually was, so he became known as "Mafoota" (big and fat) to the members. Mafoota was given the nick-name Jumb o after a couple of years. It's a suitable name for a very big man with an equally big character - picture a bald-pated Zulu standing 6ft 4in with a portly figure and a laugh that comes from deep inside his size 14 boots.

He and his friend Justice arrived in Europe three years ago to caddie in the Cannes tournament in Southern France. The affluence of the club did not intimidate the newcomers, as it was similar to the country club scene back at home. The travel and language barrier was, however, quite a challenge to the two men who had not previously left South Africa. Of the 11 languages that Jumbo speaks, only English is valuable to him in Europe.

Naturally, the new arrivals drew inquisitive glances in the caddie shack. As the two adventurers made their way to England for the next event, they got as far as Immigration at Heathrow airport. Rumour has it that one of the many insecure caddies had tipped off the authorities. Jumbo recounts arriving back in Soweto, ashamed that his voyage had ended so quickly.

Having figured out the Immigration procedure the hard way, it didn't take them long to get the correct papers and, a month later, they arrived back to a more hospitable welcome in the European caddie shack.

Justice had enough of Europe after one season and now coaches caddies back in South Africa. Jumbo has been joined this year by Simon Masilo, also from Soweto. Masilo caddied for Ernie Els in Wentworth and will also be with him for the Dunhill Cup in St Andrews. Reggie Mokhosi from Johannesburg is the third black South African caddie looping in Europe this year.

Jumbo is starting to get used to the way of life in Europe. When I talked to him a few weeks ago in Paris, he had just been to the Lacoste factory to buy a dozen T-shirts, size extra-large. He was developing a taste for Bordeaux wine and his palate was coping well with French cooking.

Jumbo's account of conditions in South Africa made me blush at my reaction to minor inconveniences in Europe. When he first entered the caddie shack at Houghton, he was locked inside. The older caddies had to keep at least one hand against the caddie shack building to keep him in.

Today Jumbo enjoys what he ironically refers to as "giant status" back in the Houghton caddie shack. In Europe, he is as accepted as any other caddie on tour; he has done his time, earned respect. Jumbo will not be seen with one hand resting on the caddie shack wall. He waits like the rest of us in the comfort of the locker room or clubhouse, an ebullient man with a warm and touching smile, and a positive attitude that makes him a fine ambassador for Soweto.