New openings
Blackthorn
The Twelve Hotel, Barna, Co Galway; blackthorngalway.com
It’s all change in Barna, where chef Nathan Hindmarch has a new diningroom to showcase his talents. With a menu inspired by the elements of land, sea and fire, a new open flame set-up works wonders in dishes such as black sole on the bone or dry-aged rib-eye with ramson capers. Long-serving sommelier Fergal Guiney is always happy to guide you through the wine list. Joanne Cronin
Caribou
28-30 Stephen Street, Dublin 2; instagram.com/caribou_dublin
With a bright, open room, big windows for people watching and outdoor seating for fine days, Caribou has already established itself as a fun spot in the middle of town for bar food that’s a cut above. Its steak frites with Irish rump steak and peppercorn sauce or double smash burger bring in the weekday lunch crowd, while hearty roast lunches with unlimited gravy fill the seats at weekends. JC
China Tang
5A Monkstown Crescent, Dún Laoghaire, Monkstown, Co Dublin; 01-4853798, chinatang.ie
Peking duck at China Tang – €88 for a whole duck, ordered in advance – arrives gleaming and is carved tableside by Mr Chan. The skin is brittle and amber – the first bite cracks, melts and disappears. Warm house-made pancakes, dark hoisin, sharp scallions and cool cucumber build the rest. The second course – wok-fried duck with cumin – is darker, crispier, and just as essential. Pricey, yes, but it is one of the best ducks you will eat in Dublin. Corinna Hardgrave
[ Great places for sunny outdoor dining around DublinOpens in new window ]
Cush
The Courtyard, 8a Main Street, Midleton, Co Cork; 021-2455777, cush.ie
Cush recently relocated from the seaside village of Ballycotton to the busy town of Midleton, where Dan Guerin’s cooking remains as sharp and welcoming as ever. A strong focus on locally caught seafood remains at the heart of Cush, with John Dory, roast monkfish and smoked haddock all showcased on the menu. But fear not carnivores, there’s also hearty dry-aged beef chop roasted over charcoal or pork shoulder and mozzarella croquettes. JC
Dolly’s Liscannor
14 Main St, Liscannor, Co Clare; instagram.com/dollysliscannor/
A cool Australian coffee vibe in Liscannor. Elaine Slattery’s coffee shop offers a small, well-executed menu with daily baked goods such as brownies, cookies and scones, plus sandwiches made with local ingredients. Headed by coffee expert Richard Mattey, it’s a laid-back spot with a retractable roof, ideal for sunny afternoons or sheltered seating, and an upstairs studio for yoga and Pilates. CH
Excuse My French
25 Dunville Avenue, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-5672407, excusemyfrench.ie
Toulouse out front, La Rochelle in the kitchen – this narrow Ranelagh bistro from Colin Dapot and Sidjy Batista turns out deft French classics. Raclette-stuffed croquettes, pork in mustard sauce with buttery spaetzle, and a fish gratin show up on the short dinner menu from Wednesday to Sunday. By day, it’s a deli for coffee, croissants and charcuterie – with a smart wine list and retail bottles available with €10 corkage. CH
Forêt
8-9 Sussex Terrace, Leeson Street Upper, Dublin 4; foret.ie
Classic French bistro cooking arrived firmly in Dublin to great acclaim, courtesy of industry stalwarts John and Sandy Wyer. Located over M O’Brien’s pub, the L-shaped diningroom is home to a menu packed with Gallic delights. Start with home-made saucisson or seasonally perfect asparagus with cockles followed by chicken au vin jaune or steak frites with pepper sauce. Make sure, though, to leave room for the croissant pudding with Calvados caramel. JC
Hera
58 Dorset Street Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin 1; 089-4020361, junobar.ie
Dublin’s north inner city received a huge boost with the arrival of Joe Smith’s cooking, tucked inside the revitalised Juno pub. The menu is packed with good value downright tasty plates, influenced by Mediterranean flavours. Scoop up smoked cod taramasalata with home-made crisps, crunch through aubergine schnitzel or share a luxurious fish pie for two. Enjoy with one of their excellent cocktails or craft beers. JC
Hong Kong Wonton
15 Fade St, Dublin 2; 01-6718484, hongkongwonton.ie
Soup hot enough to scald your soul, dumplings fat enough to need a strategy, and French toast that should come with a defibrillator. Hong Kong Wonton is the Pau family’s 16-seater tribute to proper Hong Kong fast food: blisteringly fresh pork and prawn wontons, beef brisket falling apart into spiced broth, and deep-fried peanut butter sandwiches soaked in syrup. It’s a cha chaan teng (Hong Kong diner) drop-kicked into Dublin, serving serious food without apology. CH
Lena
1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8; 01-4163655, lena.ie
From former Locks restaurant to new kid on the block, Lena’s transition has been utterly seamless. The old bar is gone, replaced with a sleek new counter, the diningroom is better than ever and the menu is packed with chef Paul McNamara’s unmissable Italian dishes. Sourdough toast with melting lardo, the peppery pici cacio e pepe and the rich veal shin osso bucco will have you coming back for more. JC
Nosh 19
19 Princes Street, Cork; 021-4802563, nosh19.ie
A Hong Kong native, chef Ben Wong came to Ireland at age 15 and now calls himself a proud Corkman. At Nosh 19, his menu is inspired by Hong Kong cha chaan teng cafe culture, mixing classic Irish-Chinese favourites with authentic Hong Kong and Asian dishes. Recent seafood showcase nights have been a hit, as are dishes like the roast duck noodle soup, Sichuan sour fish and Hong Kong ice milk tea. JC
Reggie’s Pizzeria
221/223 Rathmines Road Lower, Rathmines, Dublin 6; reggies.ie
Reggie White could have stayed the guy who fixed everyone else’s pizza. Instead, he built the best one in Dublin – a sharp, low-waste pizzeria set in a reworked redbrick building in Rathmines. Behind a front window rattling with a 1981 Diosna mixer, he’s turning 48-hour fermented Wildfarmed sourdough into blistered, nutty bases topped with whey-braised leeks, Cashel Blue and Andarl Farm sausage. CH
Sea Shanty
3 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 083-1783314, instagram.com/seashantyblackrock
Tucked above Conway’s Bar in Blackrock, Sea Shanty is in a creaky-floored room where dinner drifts between anchovies sharpened with ponzu, grilled octopus on smoky muhammara, green curry and oysters straight from Woopstown, Cooley, and Killough Bay and battered seaweed bhajis. Uruguayan chef Sebastian Sainz and Spanish sommelier Elena Segura run the floor like it’s their front room, pouring serious natural wines to match the tide of sardine tins, tacos and tentacles. CH
Suertudo
47 Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-4978010, suertudo.ie
Jalisco and Oaxaca meet in Ranelagh as chefs Victor Lara and Celina Altamirano combine to bring elevated Mexican food to Dublin. Dishes such as Michelada oysters, tostada de ceviche, birria tacos with consommé and incredible charcoal grilled steak would not be out of place in Mexico City itself. It goes without saying that the cocktails made with imported tequila and mezcal are superb. JC
The Bucks Head Restaurant With Rooms
77-79 Main Street Dundrum BT33 0LU; +44 28-43751868, thebucksheaddundrum.co.uk
The Bucks Head still looks like a Mournes hiking pub from the outside – pint, crisps, dog asleep under the table. Inside, Alex Greene (formerly of Michelin-starred Eipic, Pétrus, Claridge’s), and co-owner Bronagh McCormick are turning out Kilkeel scallops with beurre blanc, black crab and pork ravioli, and a black garlic bread-and-butter pudding that’s worth the drive alone. It’s serious cooking without the ego – a village inn where you can have steak and chips or savour some of the best sauces in Northern Ireland. CH
The Pig’s Ear
4 Nassau Street, Dublin 2; 01-6703865, thepigsear.ie
Following a recent hiatus, the Pig’s Ear is back with a menu that is an ode to Irish literature and art. In other hands this would be twee, even touristy, but under owner Stephen McAllister the results are elevated and confident. Indulgent Dublin Lawyer omelette features whiskey flambéed lobster and Béarnaise sauce, holding true to its origin story of being “as rich as a Dublin lawyer”. JC
The Pullman Restaurant at Glenlo Abbey
Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate, Kentfield, Galway; 091-519600, glenloabbeyhotel.ie
Two restored carriages from the Orient Express, Leona (1927) and Linda (1954), at Glenlo Abbey, set the stage for a dining experience led by Angelo Vagiotis (Terre, Noma, Manresa) and pastry chef Linda Sergidou. The tasting menu combines exceptional technique with creativity: from organic leaves tied in a bouquet to Jerusalem artichoke paired with monkfish liver, and turbot in brioche butter with Champagne sauce. The pastry? Some of the best you’ll find. It’s clear – this is Michelin-level ambition, and one to watch. CH
Notions
74 Francis Street, Dublin 8; twopupscoffee.com
With summer on the way, Two Pups cafe could not have picked a better time to launch its new evening food and wine offering. And while the name may be tongue-in-cheek, there is absolutely nothing pretentious about Andrew Kelly’s food. It’s all bang on trend and beautifully executed, ranging from whipped cod’s roe on grilled sourdough and asparagus in Parmesan sauce and guanciale to chunky ham hock croquettes. Oh, and there’s wine now too. JC
Vada
30 Brunswick Street North, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; 083-8011001, hellovada.com
Vada is a daytime cafe that has livened up Stoneybatter with creative and fun dishes. Chef Hannah O’Donnell maintains a zero-waste philosophy as she serves up breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. The Vada hash goes a step beyond with Ethersons gammon steak and asparagus, while the croissant French toast is for those with a sweet tooth. Look out for pop-up dinners with natural wines over the summer months. JC
Worth travelling for
Adrift
Dunmore House Hotel, Dunmore, Clonakilty, Co Cork; 023-8833352, dunmorehousehotel.ie
The Barrett family of Dunmore House Hotel know more than a thing or two about hospitality. Over the years, they have consistently developed and improved their little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay. Under head chef Manuel Canapini, Adrift has become a contender for the country’s top seafood spots – trawler to table. JC
Aniar
53 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-535947, aniarrestaurant.ie
It was all change last year at Aniar when owner JP McMahon commissioned architect Aidan Conway to create a new interior for this iconic Galway restaurant. Out went the lighter greens and neutral tones, making way for a darkened interior with dramatic lighting. It makes sense though, acting as a focus for McMahon’s dishes which have evolved into an intense, almost primal, expression of the west of Ireland. JC
Baba’de
The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112, babade.ie
Baba’de may be the little sibling to Michelin-starred Dede, but this charming spot is standing firmly on its own two feet. Under chef Muslim Karafil, savour fragrant delights such as charcoal grilled chicken thighs with hazelnut satay sauce, spiced crispy chicken with brown butter dip, or a whole west Cork blue lobster with pil pil potato mousseline. Or come for Turkish-influenced brunch on weekends. JC
Ballyfin Demesne
Ballyfin, Co Laois; 057-8755866, ballyfin.com
At Ballyfin – a hotel so exclusive it barely seems real – Richard Picard-Edwards has delivered the final flourish: a Michelin star for the diningroom. The €145 eight-course tasting menu is on the familiar side of grandeur, with a thrillingly good Jerusalem artichoke cream topped with chicken jelly and gold leaf, and dishes featuring lobster and caviar. Broths, purées and reductions bring depth without being overwrought. Non-residents can book, but getting a table feels about as casual as applying for citizenship. CH
Bramley
10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, bramleyabbeyleix.com
Sam and Emily Moody’s fine-dining spot in Abbeyleix turns out sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree – Sam cooked at Ballyfin and Bath Priory – and produce from their own walled garden. The lunch menu and midweek Supper at Six are great value, but it’s at dinner that the kitchen really hits its stride, with a la carte and tasting menus (€80) delivering dishes such as seared scallops, honey-glazed quail with leek emulsion, pan-fried wild halibut with mussels, and slow-roast organic duck. CH
George V at Ashford Castle
Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo; 094-9546003, ashfordcastle.com
The dark wood panelling of Ashford Castle’s George V diningroom might scream old-school but under executive head chef Liam Finnegan the food has taken a fresher turn. French-rooted, yes, but lighter, with sauces built on serious stocks rather than just butter and cream. Much of the produce now comes from a new two-acre kitchen garden, run by head gardener Alex Lavarde using no-dig methods and supplying everything from beets to honey. The twice-baked Hegarty’s cheese soufflé is a must; the wine cellar, as always, is formidable. CH
Homestead Cottage
Lough North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, homesteadcottagedoolin.com
It’s not every day a stonewalled cottage on the wild west coast lands a Michelin star, but Robbie McCauley’s precise cooking makes it feel inevitable. Along with his wife Sophie, he has transformed this former cafe into something rooted in tradition but unmistakably modern, serving a nine-course dinner (€125) and six-course lunch (€85). McCauley works tightly with local producers, using Burren outwintered beef, and lobster and crab from Michael O’Connell, they raise their own chickens and have an impressive vegetable garden. There’s even a small terrace for pre-dinner drinks – if the weather behaves. CH
Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare
Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry; 064-6641200, parkkenmare.com/dining/landline
When Bryan Meehan – the Irish entrepreneur behind Blue Bottle Coffee – bought The Park Hotel from the Brennan brothers last year, two things changed in the diningroom. The tasting menu was dropped in favour of a focused a la carte, and Meehan hung two Sean Scully paintings – one of which gives the room its name, The Landline. Local chef James O’Sullivan keeps things classic but special with seared scallops, Kerry Hill lamb, and pan-seared sole. Non-residents can book. CH
Liath
Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, liathrestaurant.com
One of Dublin’s smallest restaurants and one of its mightiest, Liath is an intimate space where food is staged as art. Damien Grey and team perform manoeuvres with grace through service in the fully open kitchen, allowing guests to see the artists at work. Grey is looking to move to a larger space, so make sure to get a booking at Blackrock market before they leave. JC
Lir
The Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry; +44 78-28127739, lirseafood.com
Chef Stevie McCarry recently won the Northern Ireland final of the Great British Menu, a well-earned accolade for this self-taught chef. With wife Rebekah, he has developed Lir into a truly exciting seafood restaurant. The Japanese konro grill is put to good use in the kitchen which turns out cod collar schnitzel, ling kofta with burnt apple sauce and smoked dogfish corndog. Look out for the upcoming summer music nights on the terrace. JC
Paradiso
16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939, paradiso.restaurant
After more than 30 years in business, Denis Cotter is planning his transition away from his legendary fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. Long-term restaurant manager Dave O’Mahony is in line to take over, with head chef Miguel Frutos continuing to lead the kitchen into the future. With produce grown in a unique partnership with Gort na Náin farm and a super natural wine menu, Paradiso continues to set the standard. JC
Rare
3-4 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork; 021-4772209, rare1784.ie
There isn’t another restaurant quite like Rare. Drawing on his classical French training, chef Meeran Manzoor has invented a cuisine that is all his own, using the best of local produce accented with flavours from his home city of Chennai. His menu descriptions may sound simple but they belie a complexity of spice and nuanced technique that is simply delightful. JC
Restaurant Chestnut
The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie
Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming’s Michelin-starred Chestnut offers three routes – a €55 two-course prix fixe, a four-course for €75 or the full €120 tasting menu. Ingredients are local and fiercely seasonal – Lisheen Greens, Twomey’s butchers, Union Hall fish – with much of it cooked over a custom wood-fired grill. Expect wild halibut with mussels or aged Skeaghanore duck with coal onion and sour cherries. His food is exacting, mature and restrained – one of the country’s top chefs. CH
The diningroom at Gregan’s Castle
Gregan’s Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; 065-7077005, gregans.ie
Sitting in a little glen outside Ballyvaughan, Gregans Castle is the quirky but extremely stylish countryside hotel of dreams. Chef Jonathan Farrell moved from Dublin to take over the kitchens and is producing food perfectly harmonised with the stunning landscapes. Choose from dishes such as wild garlic spaetzle, Atlantic scallop with XO, butter-poached cod, roast rack of Burren lamb or forced rhubarb direct from the hotel garden. JC
The Olde Glen
Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777, oldeglen.ie
The Olde Glen bar would have a serious chance in any “Ireland’s most traditional pub” competition, and is worth a visit in its own right. But it’s the cooking of Ciaran Sweeney to the rear of the pub that brings the punters in night after night. The menu is packed with local produce including roast Mulroy Bay scallops, fermented potato bread with Gortahork cabbage and glazed Killybegs cod. JC
The Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch Castle
Recess, Connemara, Co Galway; 095-31006, ballynahinchcastle.com
Former Michelin-star chef Danni Barry keeps things razor sharp at the Owenmore Restaurant, with a four-course table d’hote menu (€95) that lets the ingredients do the talking. Kilkeel scallops with caramelised kohlrabi, line-caught mackerel with blood orange and horseradish, barbecued quail with soy and honey, and wild sea bass with salt-baked celeriac are cooked with precision. Bookings are available for non-residents. CH
Casual dining, serious cooking
{…} And Chips
Castle House, The Quay, Dungarvan, Co Waterford; 058-24498, andchips.ie
Five years ago Eunice Power opened her upmarket chipper in Dungarvan, setting a new benchmark for fish and chips by the sea. While the menu offers classic fish suppers, fish burgers and even fish tacos, there’s also chicken and beef burgers, plus a fish spice box for those feeling adventurous. The real standout? Eunice’s commitment to local produce, sourcing from a range of fishing boats in Cork and Waterford whenever possible. CH
Andhra Bhavan
38 Abbey Street Upper, Dublin 1; 01-5321292, andhrabhavan.ie
Morning starts strong with dosa, idli, vada, peserattu and uttappam, hammered out fast and hot with proper chai. By lunch, it’s birianis, thali platters and mutton fry, all packed with heat, spice and serious firepower. The original on Marlborough Street now has a second branch on Abbey Street – newer, just as sharp. The menu runs deep, from Gobi 65 and lamb Chettinadu to rich fish curry, and is built for repeat visits. CH
Arán
8 Barrack Street, Kilkenny; 056-7756297, arankilkenny.ie
Bart and Nicole Pawlukojc’s cafe runs an all-day brunch on one side of the street, with world flavours drawn from Poland, the Philippines and beyond, punched up by jars of pickles and ferments lined along the high counter. It swings from sharp, umami-rich plates to comforting classics, backed by natural wines and a sharp seasonal menu. Across the road, their bakery draws steady queues for award-winning sourdough, pastries and coffee. CH
Bar Pez
Unit 3, College Court, Kevin Street Lower, Portobello, Dublin; 01-5670577, barpez.ie
Dublin’s wine bar scene has exploded, but Bar Pez – Star Wine List Grand Prix winner – sets the standard. Manager Tommy Vivian runs the floor, while the 300+ list focuses on pet-nats, biodynamics and serious growers. Chris McCann (Volpe Nera) leads the kitchen, with Simone Tamilio (Allta) in rotation. Hake ceviche with rhubarb is cold and clean; boudin noir with Coolea rarebit is rich and exact; and scallop toast with plum chilli jam brings real heat. Open Sunday and Monday nights, it’s where chefs and sommeliers go when they’re off the clock. CH
Bayou
8a MacCurtain Street, Cork; 021-2455740, instagram.com/bayou_cork
Enjoy a little taste of southern comfort cooking down on Cork’s own Bayou. Located in a gorgeous space on MacCurtain Street, start the day with a breakfast of coke and bourbon glazed ham with biscuits, eggs and fried potatoes. For lunch, try the New Orleans classics of po’boys, muffuletta, jambalaya or gumbo, finished with a powdery sweet beignet. In the words of head chef Joshua Crawford, this is non-fussy food, prepared well. JC
Bearú
52 South Street, New Ross, Co Wexford; 051-420735, bearu.ie
Bearú in New Ross has a new look – a public square and outdoor seating ready for summer – but the kitchen stays tight. Breakfast and lunch run daily, with pastry from Claire Griffin. Dinner is Friday and Saturday only: a three-course a la carte with hand-rolled gnocchi, Kilmore Quay scallops and Wexford strawberries. Three choices per course, built around whatever the boats and farms bring in that week. CH
Feast
24A Bridge Street, Rostrevor, Co Down; instagram.com/__feast
Don’t be deceived by the apparent simplicity of Feast, the little village restaurant from Melissa McCabe, a former contestant on the Great British Menu, and Roisin McCaffrey. The devil is in the details, from the sleek ceramic coffee cups on wooden coasters to some truly innovative flavour combinations. Try the breakfast sausage roll with peanut butter and chilli jam, toasted sandwiches that pack a punch or an elegant creamy chowder. Feast is just as charming as Rostrevor itself. JC
Ichigo Ichie
5 Fenns Quay, Cork; 021-4279997, ichigoichie.ie
Always buzzing, Takashi Miyazaki‘s bistro and natural wine bar is the place to go for casual Japanese food. The Michelin star has been handed back, but it’s been replaced by fun and a whole lot of hand-pulled noodles. The creativity has never been higher, with plates such as grilled aubergine with red yuzu miso and chicken or udon noodles with white curry topped with creamy potato foam. JC
Izz Cafe
14 Georges Quay, Cork; 085-1495625, izz.ie
Pillowy flatbreads, creamy hummus and smoky babaganoush are always a good bet at Izz, Alkarajeh and Eman Abu Rabi‘s superb Palestinian cafe. Fill up with manaeesh, a traditional topped flatbread, or swoon over the rich, showstopping magloubeh, a mix of rice, chicken and vegetable served upside down from the pot. Finish with flaky warbat filled with rose water cream and make sure to look out for their first cookbook, Jibrin, this summer. JC
Kai
22 Sea Road, Galway; 091-526003, kairestaurant.com
Jess and Dave Murphy opened their Galway restaurant in 2011, keeping it casual by day with a revolving lunch menu and shifting to a tighter, more serious dinner service at night. Dishes run to Connemara crab with kohlrabi and roe, lamb with asparagus, and agnolotti del plin stuffed with Connemara surf clams. Their Michelin Green Star reflects a serious commitment to local sourcing and sustainability, built around the circular economy rather than lip service. CH
M&L Szechuan Chinese
Cathedral Street, Dublin 1; 01-8748038, mlchineserestaurant.com
Still one of the best-loved Chinese restaurants in Dublin, this Sichuan stalwart just off O’Connell Street draws Chinese diners first, and everyone else second. Fresh dumplings, green beans with garlic and chilli, glossy aubergine, and deep-fried sea bass show a kitchen that has never lost its edge. Go with a gang – you’ll want to hit the menu properly – and there’s a private room upstairs if you need it. BYOB with €7 corkage keeps the tables packed. CH
Nádúr Deli
Nano Nagle Place, Douglas Street, Cork; 021-4322107, instagram.com/nadurdeli
The little sibling to Good Day Deli, Nádúr occupies a charming small 18th-century building, with seating indoors and outdoors. The ethos here is sustainable plates, coffees and natural wines which celebrate the connection between the food and the natural world. Try Gort na Náin asparagus with burette on sourdough, Goatsbridge smoked trout smørrebrød or the chipotle béchamel and Hegarty’s cheddar toastie. JC
Savoir Fare
Bridge Street, Westport, Co Mayo; 098-60095, instagram.com/savoir_fare/
Alain Morice runs a 20-seat deli, daytime bistro and wine bar, mixing French technique with Irish produce. The small menu changes weekly, with pâté en croûte – pork, fig and herbs wrapped in pastry – as a regular feature. Galway snails come drenched in garlic butter. Roast chicken with Dauphinoise is straightforward and serious. Desserts are made in-house by Morice’s sister, keeping it all tight and in the family. CH
Square
6 Market Square, Dundalk, Co Louth; 042-9337969, squarerestaurant.ie
Conor Halpenny cooks with confidence and a sense of fun. Home-made crisps buried under a flurry of cheese, a warm Coolea biscuit with whipped ricotta and walnuts, and lamb mince on toast with cucumber and mint set things off fast. The Square “KFC” and trofie pasta with courgette and Boyne Valley Bán cheese keep the mood lively. Bigger plates follow – slow roast lamb, sirloin steak, monkfish with pickled mussels – backed by a tight, thoughtful wine list. CH
Saint Francis Provisions
Short Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork; 083-0168652, saintfrancisprovisions.squarespace.com
St Francis Provisions shines all year around, but with summer on the way, everything truly bursts into life in Kinsale. Chef Rebeca Recarey Sanchez’s plates are deceptive, packed with flavours that are bigger than the cosy little room. Grilled ox tongue, cod with confit peppers or salty gildas, everything is magical, especially when paired with one of their excellent pet-nat wines. JC
The Lifeboat Inn
The Lifeboat Inn, Main Street, Courtmacsherry, Co Cork; 085-8696463, lifeboatinn.ie
David O’Halloran and Martin Buckley – better known as “the lads from The Lifeboat” – bought their Courtmacsherry pub in 2017 and became a low-key TikTok sensation documenting the renovation. Now Martin’s cooking videos are getting a following too. The food is sharp but unfussy, with a focus on locally landed fish and seafood through the summer. Prime tables sit across the road with views over the river Arigideen. CH
Outdoor dining
Farmgate Lismore
17 Main Street, Lismore, Co Waterford; 087-8656231, farmgate.ie
Set in the former O’Brien’s Pub building, which was subsequently home to The Chop House, this is now a serious diningroom with a long counter for walk-ins and a smaller room at the back. The menu sticks to local and seasonal produce – seafood chowder, deep-fried calamari, pan-fried halibut with leek and mussel sauce, duck leg confit with spring onion champ and buttered carrots. There’s also an 18-seat garden terrace – uncovered, unheated, and fully weather dependent. CH
Fisk
The Harbour Bar, Downings, Co Donegal; fiskseafoodbar.com
When the sun is shining there is no better place to be than outdoors at Fisk with a selection of their original seafood dishes lined up in front of you and a cold drink in hand. Think gochujang glazed trout, buttery brioche roll stuffed with prawn cocktail or spicy Bloody Mary topped with oyster and shrimp. It turns out that chef Tony Davidson is also rather handy with Mexican food too, so dig in. JC
Grangecon Kitchen
Main Street, Grangecon, Co Wicklow; 087-7478863, grangeconkitchen.ie
A Green Egg barbecue runs hot here, chargrilling vegetables such as asparagus for brunch, served under a heated 80-seat yurt-style tent. Rose O’Toole (formerly of Misunderstood Heron, Aimsir) runs the kitchen, serving up Irish crab and smoked black pudding benedict, Doyle’s sausage brunch burger and house-made sourdough with romesco. The wood-fired oven slow-cooks meats for sandwiches and will fire up again for Grangecon Kitchen pizzas on summer weekends. Sunday pop-ups offer a set menu (€45-€55) built around local produce. CH
Helen’s Bar
Kilmackilogue, Co Kerry; 064-6683104
It’s a bit of a drive to Helen’s Bar, but the reward is a table outside overlooking Kenmare Bay – boats bobbing below, mountains stacked behind. The menu keeps it simple: bowls of mussels, plates of crab claws, fresh fish pulled from the bay and straight on to the plate. Good value, easy-going service and seafood that repays the detour in full. CH
King Sitric Seafood Bar
East Pier, Howth, Co Dublin; 01-8325235, kingsitric.ie
Lobster grilled with garlic butter and chips sets the tone here, backed by wild Irish fish and chips, mussels with cream, garlic and white wine and crab claws caught aboard the Atlantic Freedom, served swimming in garlic butter. There’s also wild Irish smoked ling – “smokies” – baked with crème fraîche. A heated terrace with a permanent roof and three beach huts makes outdoor eating possible whatever the weather. CH
Oifig an Fish
Main Street, Clifden, Co Galway; 085-7122717, instagram.com/oifiganfish
In Clifden’s former post office, Michael and Hannah Nagle serve a seafood menu that gets straight to the point. Fish and chips (€21), half lobster and chips (€28), mussels with sourdough (€15), and crab claws (€16) are the backbone, while daily specials like mackerel with apple and cucumber (€12) keep things fresh. The live-fire konro grill adds a smoky edge, and outdoor seating with heaters and blankets makes it a great spot, rain or shine. Larger groups can book a two-set menu (€30-€65). CH
POTA
An Tulach, Baile na hAbhann, Co na Gallimhe; 085-7566963, pota.ie
Diarmuid Ó Mathúna runs one of the best daytime spots around – breakfast, brunch and lunch built on proper seasonal produce. The taco with deep-fried Ros an Mhíl haddock, Aran Islands crab salad with Velvet Cloud yoghurt, and the toastie with Feeney’s pulled bacon collar are all worth the trip. Outside, there’s now a 40-seat garden, half covered, backed by 22 solar panels. They even make their own condiments, from honey mustard mayo to berry compote. CH
September
3 Bath Place, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 086-0507591, septemberdublin.com
Casual by day with small plates and sandwiches, more focused at night, William Browne’s Blackrock spot has James Strathern (ex-Dede, Orwell Road, Roe Wines) in the kitchen. There’s a short a la carte and a six-course tasting menu at €64. Cod and nduja arancini, red mullet crudo, wild garlic gnocchi and sausage and ricotta ravioli keep it tight. A sea-view heated deck with 12 uncovered seats makes the most of the setting. DJ nights and summer events are planned. CH
Tang
2 Cumberland Place, Fenian Street, Dublin; 01-5310661, tang.ie
Keith Coleman – formerly of Roots, Fumbally and Fia – is behind some of the best casual food in Dublin. The evening menu runs Thursday to Saturday: roast Iona Farm carrots with labneh and chermoula, cauliflower with smoky cashew sauce, free-range chicken thigh with tzatziki and hot honey. The sheltered 42-seat garden, planted and properly thought through, is one of the best places in the city to sit and eat when the weather behaves. A new bakery and test kitchen are on the way later this year. CH
The Coach House
Main Street, Roundwood, Co Wicklow; 01-23360106, thecoachhouse.ie
In a restored 1820s coach house, Ciaran Kiely (ex-Oliveto) is cooking over a bespoke ember pit, working with Ballincarey Organic Farm, An Tairseach and Higgins butchers. The menu runs from Sheelagh’s beetroot with St Tola’s goat’s cheese to Kilmore Quay monkfish, pork belly, and a Wagyu cheeseburger that means business. Outside, a 40-seat terrace – half covered, marble tables, wood stove and heaters – makes outdoor eating worth a gamble. Thursday nights run a two- or three-course neighbourhood menu. CH
For celebrations
51 Cornmarket
51 Cornmarket Street, Cork; 083-0102321, 51cornmarket.ie
Situated on Cork’s historic Cornmarket, David Devereaux and Anne Zagar’s small restaurant has become known in the city for exacting classic cooking executed with local ingredients on a seasonal menu that changes weekly. Start with Anne’s home-made brown bread and burned onion butter, followed by unctuous duck liver parfait with spring Cork asparagus, anchovy and crispy egg followed by monkfish grilled on the bone finished with ‘nduja cream. JC
Bastible
111 South Circular Road, Dublin 8; 01-4737409, bastible.com
Bastible continues to stand proud on Dublin’s Leonard’s Corner, serving its unique Irish take on Nordic-style cuisine. Under owner Barry Fitzgerald and chef Killian Walsh, the clean, crisp cooking is sprinkled with rich notes. Think crab tartlet with fermented sweetcorn and tart grape juice, grilled sika deer with the glossiest port jus or a creamy mushroom custard made with mushrooms grown right across the road. JC
Campagne
5 The Arches, 5 Gas House Lane, Kilkenny, Co Kilkenny; 056-7772858, campagne.ie
When most Michelin-starred places are heading for three figures before you’ve ordered a drink, this one still turns out three courses at lunch and early-bird for €50. Garrett Byrne’s food is rooted in the classics – ravioli of hand-dived scallop with fennel butter sauce, pancetta royale of Challans duck with spiced greengage purée, grilled octopus with braised chickpeas, Hereford beef with ox cheek croquette and green peppercorn salsa. Great ingredients, great cooking, great value. CH
Everett’s
22 High Street, Waterford; 051-325174, everetts.ie
You don’t expect one of the country’s best set menus to come out of a 15th-century building in Waterford, but Peter Everett cooks with precision and care. Lunch is €38, pre-theatre €41, dinner €55 – for proper dishes like soft-boiled free-range egg with toasted brioche and cheese and onion cream, Wexford scallops with lentils and garlic sausage, and fillet of hake with smoked bacon, cabbage and potato. Eight outdoor seats sit under an awning, with heaters primed for Irish summers. CH
Lignum
Slatefort House, Bullaun, Co Galway; lignum.ie
At Lignum, Danny Africano leads a kitchen where every plate passes over kiln-dried birch, ash and oak, threading smoke through some of the country’s most precise cooking, while his wife, Molly Keane, runs front of house. The €145, 10-course tasting menu has included Killary Fjord mussel and sea urchin flan, red mullet and gambero rosso pasta, and wild venison just barely kissed by flame. A €70 five-course lunch runs at weekends. The Michelin star finally landed in 2025 – three years later than it should have. CH
Ox
1 Oxford Street, Belfast BT1 3LA; +44 28-90314121, oxbelfast.com
Big windows flood Ox with light, but the real draw is Stephen Toman’s cooking – precise, inventive, and rooted in the seasons. Refurbished in 2023, the calm, understated room sets the stage for a kitchen quietly recognised as one of the sharpest on the island. Expect dishes like smoked Ballywalter veal with black garlic, or lobster brightened with broad beans and lemon grass, while Alain Kerloc’h’s smart wine pairings pull it all together. CH
Parrilla
7-9 Sandford Road, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-4970122, parrillaranelagh.com
In case the name hasn’t already given the game away, a parrilla grill sits at the heart of this Ranelagh restaurant. From restaurateur Jules Mak and head chef Hector Ochoa, charcoal flavour is infused into as many dishes as possible, from grilled half chicken in arbol and habanero sauce to caramelised pineapple with pickled onion and tangy tajin. The margarita menu is absolutely banging, especially the Verdita. JC
Sister 7 at Fidelity
Fidelity Studio, 79 Queen Street, Dublin 7; 091-637530, fidelitybar.ie
Fidelity Studio connects to Fidelity Bar through a slick interior door, making it easy to move between beers and bao. Sister 7 – a Big Fan collaboration – serves Chinese-style tapas using Irish produce and ingredients repurposed from Whiplash Beer’s brewing waste. The dumplings and bao are solid, but the “lip sticks” – fried cakes of fermented rice, yam, tofu and celeriac – are the move. Don’t miss the Sichuan-style Irish lamb with cumin, chilli, sesame and curried chickpea popcorn. DJs keep the place buzzing. CH
The Morrison Room
Carton House, Carton Demesne, Maynooth, Co Kildare; 01-5052000, cartonhouse.com
Laser sharp classical cooking, intense glossy sauces and innovative flavours all combined this year to land a first Michelin Star for the beautiful Morrison Room. It has been achieved under the leadership of local man Adam Nevin, who learned his craft at spots such as The Hand and Flowers in Buckinghamshire and The Grill at the Dorchester in London. Expect much, much more from this modest, immensely talented chef. JC
The toughest tables to book
Assassination Custard
19 Cross Kevin Street, Dublin 8; 087-4701577, instagram.com/assassination_custard
When Gwen McGrath and Ken Doherty recently announced the reopening of Dublin’s smallest restaurant, there was much rejoicing. This time out they accept bookings, much to the relief of those who struggled to get tables before, and there’s also wine to accompany lunch. Small sharing plates of smoky aubergine, calf’s liver with fenugreek butter, and radicchio dressed with guanciale fat epitomise the eclectic Italian influence for which this cosy spot is much loved. JC
Chapter One
18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1; 01-8732266, chapteronerestaurant.com
Mickael Viljanen’s Chapter One isn’t just Ireland’s best restaurant – it’s one of the best anywhere, and not just for the two-Michelin-star, €90 three-course lunch. At a recent meal, a parade of canapés (warm mushroom beignet, pissaladière hidden in transparent pastry) was followed with Loire Valley asparagus, wild turbot, Anjou pigeon and razor-sharp desserts. Bookings open quarterly – next round June 24th at 9.30am for September–October. Tables for two go first; fours have more chance. Get on the waiting list now and sign up for the newsletter. CH
Fish Shop at The Beach House
Turkey Road, Tramore, Co Waterford; 051-338270, beachhousetramore.ie
Peter Hogan and Jumoke Akintola have stripped things back at their Victorian town house seafood spot in Tramore, now running a casual Fish & Chips Café on the ground floor. Light beer-battered fish – John Dory, haddock, whiting – leads the menu, backed by daily specials like Woodstown Bay oysters, Boatstrand crab salad and Roaring Water Bay mussel curry. It operates as a diningroom from Friday to Sunday. The wine list is as impressive as ever, and organic and biodynamic wines are poured by the glass, bottle or carafe. CH
Goldie
128 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2398720, goldie.ie
There are dishes at Goldie that make you want to eat nothing but seafood for the rest of your life. Aisling Moore’s creativity seems to know no bounds, creating pâté made from local meaty Rossmore oysters, Mexican-inspired pibil monk cheek sope or pan-fried megrim with cafe de Paris butter. There are generous mounds of crushed colcannon for sides and a modern wine selection available by the glass, carafe or bottle. JC
Grano
Unit 5, Norseman Court, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; 01-5382003, grano.ie
Grano is one of Dublin’s hardest reservations to secure, but it’s worth it if you want pasta excellence. All pasta is made fresh every day, using flour from an ancient Italian grain grown by owner Roberto Mungo himself. New additions to the menu include cappellacci stuffed with slow-cooked beef and onion, romanesco artichoke ravioli, and spaghetti with asparagus, saltwort and Calabrian chilli breadcrumbs. Ask for recommendations from the all-Italian wine list. JC
Kicky’s
Castle House, Unit 9, South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2; 01-9061008, kickys.ie
When a meal starts with a chunk of potato focaccia, carbonara butter and guanciale, you might justifiably feel that you’re in good hands. At Kicky’s, chef Eric Matthews and team will take you through a spectrum from refined to indulgent. Think mussels bound lightly in taramasalata with smoked eel and kohlrabi, wild brill cooked over charcoal or rabbit Bolognese. Make sure to finish with Audrey Cahatol’s signature Irish Coffee dessert. JC
Library Street
101 Setanta Place, Dublin 2; 01-617099, librarystreet.ie
Kevin Burke’s restaurant is one of Dublin’s toughest reservations, and for good reason. The room fizzes with energy and the food is smart, focused and inventive. The choux with horseradish and Cantabrian anchovy has been there since day one. Small plates include marinated peppers with salsa verde and kohlrabi, followed by a tranche of turbot with jus gras, sorrel and Béarnaise. The wine list, put together by ace sommelier and restaurant manager Ann-Marie Duignam, is just as sharp. Book via their website – and if only 5pm shows, email for cancellations. CH
Variety Jones
79 Thomas Street, Dublin 8; 01-5671164, varietyjones.ie
Variety Jones has finally settled into its new home at the junction of Thomas Street and Francis Street. The attractive high windows allow passersby to gaze in at the kitchen and chef Keelan Higgs at the pass. This is exactly what a neighbourhood Michelin restaurant should be, with a tasting menu that combines comfort and fine dining. The old premises a few doors down will reopen soon as a wine bar. JC
Cooking over fire
allta
1 Three Locks Square, Grand Canal Dock, Dublin 2; allta.ie
Always evolving, Niall Davidson’s allta is returning to a tasting menu format for lunchtime and dinner which is designed to showcase the restaurant’s journey over the years from Library Place, Setanta Street and now the Dublin docklands. With an unwavering commitment to Irish produce in the main restaurant and the buzzy allta bar, the punchy wood-fired cooking is well worth the trip. JC
Coppinger
1 Coppinger Row, Dublin 2; 01-6729884, bereenbrothers.com/coppinger
Ever since reopening, Coppinger has captured the buzzy and fun vibes of the original venue. Listen to the cocktails shaking while you browse the Mediterranean-inspired menu which uses the best of Irish ingredients over a barbecue grill. Everything is delicious, especially when it’s the incredible value “menú del día,” available Wednesday-Friday, which offers two courses for €15 or three for €20. Where else would you get it? JC
Daróg Wine Bar
56 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-565813, darogwinebar.com
Small plates, bigger tables, better chairs – Daróg in Galway has sharpened up without losing its edge. The cooking leans into smoke and charcoal, from grilled white asparagus with lovage hollandaise to dry-aged lamb with confit leek and swede. There’s a five-course tasting menu at €55, or you can build your own from the blackboard, where more than 40 wines by the glass change weekly. Run by Zsolt Lukács and Edel McMahon, with Attila Galambos on fire in the kitchen. CH
Elbow Lane
4 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2390479, elbowlane.ie
There are two main features to the diningroom at Elbow Lane, the open charcoal grill right in the middle, and the stainless steel microbrewery tanks to the rear. Put simply, it’s all about the grilling and the beer here, although the cocktails are pretty damn good also. Start with the intensely flavoured pork belly with fish sauce caramel, followed by the signature slow-smoked baby back ribs or wood-grilled steaks. JC
Lottie’s
7-9 Rathgar Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6; 01-5585969, lotties.ie
Flame-finished mains hold their own at this neighbourhood spot. Andarl Farm pork belly, crisped and tender, pairs with radicchio and hazelnuts, while monkfish is perfectly charred. For €29, the prix fixe (5–6pm Wed–Fri) offers a snack, main, and glass of wine – perfect pre-cinema. Otherwise, settle in for grilled lamb or free-range chicken, all cooked over live fire. CH
Mister S
32 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2; 01-6835555, misters.ie
At Mister S, they proudly state that all mains are cooked over charcoal and wood. But, to be honest, every piece of produce that enters the kitchen is in danger of finding itself over the glowing embers. The smell of smoke permeates the entire room and everything is delicious, from charred leeks with romesco and smoked mozzarella, to piri piri chicken, or their incredible beef sourced from Co Donegal. Everything gets a turn on the embers. JC
Neighbourhood
1 North Main Street, Naas, Co Kildare; 045-954466, neighbourhoodnaas.com
Cooked over live fire on an Ox grill – tomahawk steaks, Black Angus chateaubriand, and porterhouse steaks are the stars, with pizzas from a full pizza oven and flatbreads to round it out. The recently renovated “secret garden” provides a relaxed outdoor setting. Set menus (€34.50 for two courses, €39.50 for three) make it easy to dive into fire-cooked flavours, while a revamped cocktail bar adds a finishing touch. CH
The Fern Grill at Knockranny House Hotel
Knockranny House Hotel, Knockranny, Westport, Co Mayo; 098-28600, knockrannyhousehotel.ie
The tomahawk for two (€79) is the headline at The Fern Grill – a slab of Hereford beef, carved at the table and kissed hard by the Basque Josper grill. Seamus Commons fires Black Angus, lamb and daily fish with the same precision, but nothing matches the depth and smoke of the beef. CH
The Glass Curtain
Unit A, Thompson House, MacCurtain Street, Cork; 021-4518659, theglasscurtain.ie
Flavour is at the heart of everything that chef patron Brian Murray does. Under Darren Kennedy, the kitchen turns out smoke-kissed plates built for sharing, using local seasonal ingredients. The signature milk buns with cultured butter are mandatory, then try grilled cuttlefish with leeks and smoked aioli, or lamb saddle and belly with smoked carrots. A second live-fire restaurant, Birdsong, is coming soon to the Coal Quay. JC
Vaughan’s on the Prom
The Promenade, Lahinch, Co Clare; 065-7081846, vaughans.ie
Denis Vaughan runs this newly refurbished spot on the prom, firing meat and shellfish over a Spanish Josper to exacting effect. The menu is tight and fire-driven: barbecued Aran Island monkfish with a hazelnut crust, roasted chicken supreme with satay crust and fregola, and aged Irish Black Angus steaks with bone marrow butter, beef jus and dripping chips. It’s about proper fire cooking, heavy plates and the freshest fish he can lay his hands on. CH
Best value
Achara
14-18 Aston Quay, Dublin 2; 089-9477910, acharadublin.ie
Walking from the busy Dublin quays into the diningroom at Achara, gently fragranced with the smell of grilled meats, is like being briefly transported far away. Chef Graeme Reynolds pulls no punches, delivering authentic Thai flavours such as chicken wings in fish sauce caramel, Wagyu basil chilli beef krapao and XO mushroom larb. Check out the €15 weekday lunch menu for some of the best value in town. JC
Diningroom
Bridge Street, Gorteendrunagh, Castlebar, Co. Mayo; 09-49021861, diningroomcastlebar.com
Diningroom in Castlebar has been quietly serving one of the best-value prix fixe menus in the country since 2016. €42 or €59 gets you three courses and a sorbet – brown soda bread, scallops with Kelly’s black pudding, Hereford sirloin with gratin dauphinoise, and a sticky toffee pudding that justifies the drive. Service is calm, the room is dark wood and Prussian blue, and every plate feels thoroughly composed. CH
L’Atitude 51
1 Union Quay, Cork; 021-2390219, latitude51.ie
The mark of a great wine bar is shown in how they share their enthusiasm for wine with their customers, and the charming L’Atitude 51 leads the way when it comes to a calendar packed with wine tastings and food and wine pairing events. The food menu is designed for sharing, with simplicity and quality shining through. Try Macroom burrata with olive oil, radishes with anchoïade or haddock and mussel croquettes, and of course, some magnificent wines. JC
Richmond
43 Richmond Street South, Portobello, Dublin 2; 01-4788783, richmondrestaurant.ie
In a bustling neighbourhood, this spot still delivers a solid early evening menu – two/three courses for €42/€52 – proving that early bird doesn’t have to be bland. David O’Byrne, with his Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2018, keeps the menu fresh with creative dishes like grilled sea bass with orange and kohlrabi or pan-seared halibut with fennel, shellfish, and chorizo barley broth. A five-course tasting menu is also available on the first Tuesday of each month for €72. CH
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The Fish Box
Green Street, Dingle, Co Kerry; 087-6027866, thefishboxdingle.com
It’s all systems go in Dingle for the Flannery family who have increased the number of seats at The Fish Box as well as moving the takeaway to Paddy Bawn Brosnan’s. New this summer is Fish Outside of the Box, offering lobster, crab and prawn rolls along with cocktails, wine and beer. With fish direct from their own fishing vessel and commitment to a sustainable supply chain, it’s among the country’s top seafood spots. JC
Volpe Nera
22 Newtown Park, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 01-2788516, volpenera.ie
Darren D’Arcy always has a perfect bottle of wine on hand to match the dishes that flow from Barry Sun’s kitchen. It’s no easy task, given Barry’s broad range of skill and flavours. Think Flaggy Shore oysters with a dab of home-made chilli oil, his signature mushroom dumplings, BBQ brill for two or a classic rum baba with strawberries. It’s worth noting that the evening neighbourhood menu offers seriously good value. JC
Long leisurely lunch
Dax
23 Pembroke Street Upper, Dublin 2; dax.ie
After 20 years in business, Dax still oozes quiet class. Graham Neville’s superb classical cooking is a joy – seared Castletownbere scallops with coral bisque, Tipperary beef, and a mille-feuille of Irish rhubarb are textbook examples. Owner Olivier Meisonnave has compiled one of the country’s great wine lists – from smart biodynamic finds to serious Grand Cru. CH
Mamó
Harbour House, Harbour Road, Howth, Dublin 13; mamorestaurant.ie
Since opening, Killian Durkin and Jess D’Arcy have worked tirelessly to deliver wonderful hospitality and modern Irish cooking from their seaside restaurant. Killian uses local and Irish ingredients such as “lamb lobster” (lamb neck), Winetavern Farm pork and Howth honey to great effect. Don’t miss the iconic cod chip or their exquisite tarts. JC
mrDeanes
28-40 Howard Street, Belfast; michaeldeane.co.uk
Recently refurbished, mrDeanes is a bistro-style restaurant that encapsulates the very best of chef Michael Deane’s 28 years in business, and this year received a Michelin Bib Gourmand. It’s exactly what a busy city bistro should be, serving up Portavogie crab on toast, entrecôte au poivre, sugar pit pork chops and fish and chips. Look out for their new own label white wine. JC
Ruchii
9 George’s Avenue, Blackrock, Co Dublin; ruchii.ie
Ruchii is a riot of Indian flavours and bright jewelled colours. Marinated jumbo prawns are cooked to perfection in the tandoor oven while the slow-cooked lamb shank nalli nihari is sheer warmth. Chef Sateesh Sayana also serves up authentic South Indian specialities including rava dosa, masala uttapam and a Sunday special of Hyderabadi chicken dum biryani. Read our full review here. JC
Thyme
Bridge Street, Athlone, Co Westmeath; thymerestaurant.ie
John Coffey does not stand still but continues to develop, always cooking with flair. The focus here is on quality produce, resulting in a glossy golden pithivier of potato, onion and Mossfield cheddar; roast cod with cauliflower, capers and golden raisins or a dark chocolate and sesame ganache. JC
Umi
57 Strand Road, Derry, Co Derry; umiderry.co.uk
The words “Asian fusion” can sometimes strike fear, but diners are in safe hands at Umi. Owners Seán Lafferty and Gary Moran have created a fun atmosphere that seamlessly marries great Irish produce with Japanese techniques. Think binchotan grilled steak or crispy dumplings made with local pork and a fiery rayu sauce. They even offer their own wine, a fresh Austrian Blaufränkisch made by ex-employee Jack Mcateer. JC
