Subscriber OnlyFood

Twelve Irish restaurants where you’ll find particularly good value

Decent value can feel like a rare commodity these days, but these places prove it hasn’t disappeared

Two Pups coffee on Francis Street, Dublin. Photograph: Alan Betson
Two Pups coffee on Francis Street, Dublin. Photograph: Alan Betson

51 Cornmarket

51 Cornmarket Street, Coal Quay, Cork, Co Cork; 083-0102321, 51cornmarket.ie
David Devereaux and Anne Zagar of 51 Cornmarket, Cork. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave
David Devereaux and Anne Zagar of 51 Cornmarket, Cork. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave

This cosy city-centre spot has evolved beautifully over five years from brunch cafe to impressive modern Irish bistro. Seasonal, local produce from top Cork suppliers shines in confidently French-inspired cooking. Everything seems to come with an irresistible sauce, dip or side, such as cheesy cheese croquettes with date ketchup, or Anne’s brown bread with burnt onion butter. Bonus points for the natural-wine-focused wine list always having a big by-the-glass selection. AD

Andhra Bhavan

85 Marlborough Place, Dublin 1; 01 -551 8742, andhrabhavan.ie
Andhra Bhavan, Marlborough Street, Dublin. Photograph: Bryan Meade
Andhra Bhavan, Marlborough Street, Dublin. Photograph: Bryan Meade

The sizzle of dosa and steam of chai set the tone – southern Indian cooking that starts at breakfast and doesn’t stop. Mornings bring dosa, idli, vada and uttappam; by lunch it’s biryanis, thali platters, Gutti Vankaya curry, mutton fry and chicken Chettinadu. The Marlborough Street original now has siblings on Abbey Street and in Belfast, all serving the same deep menu built for repeat visits. Thalis stand out, with Gobi 65, gongura prawns and lamb Chettinadu showing their range. Read our review here. CH

Bramley

10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, bramleyabbeyleix.com
Bramley, Abbeyleix
Bramley, Abbeyleix

On the main street of this planned estate town, Bramley is an elegant and spacious venue serving casual lunch and upscale dinners. Chef Sam Moody brings extensive fine-dining experience to dishes such as a crispy chicken schnitzel Caesar salad, honey-glazed quail and wild Irish venison with spiced date puree. The supper menu available from Wednesday to Friday offers exceptional value, especially when matched with a glass from the well chosen wine list. JC

Craft

208 Harold’s Cross Road, Dublin 6W; 01-4978632, craftrestaurant.ie
Craft in Dublin
Craft in Dublin

Philip Yueng’s refined neighbourhood restaurant Craft is approaching its 10th birthday and the consensus is that it has never been better. His style of modern Irish food with subtle Asian influences has proven consistently popular with locals. The three-course lunch menu for €25 or evening time chef’s menu for €39 is certainly excellent value, but the a la carte is equally worth a browse. With the winter months drawing in, the return of the Sunday roast is very welcome. JC

Dining Room

Bridge Street, Gorteendrunagh, Castlebar, Co Mayo; 094-9021861, diningroomcastlebar.com
Dining Room, Castlebar, Co Mayo. Photograph: Michael McLaughlin
Dining Room, Castlebar, Co Mayo. Photograph: Michael McLaughlin

Few restaurants cook at this level for the money. Kevin and Shirley Stirzake’s €44 and €63 menus get you three courses and a sorbet, with dishes such as Falls goat’s cheese, Keem Bay smoked salmon, West Coast crab, scallops with pork belly, Hereford sirloin and rack of lamb. CH

Lottie’s

7-9 Rathgar Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6; 01-5585969, lotties.ie
Lottie's in Rathmines, Dublin 6. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw
Lottie's in Rathmines, Dublin 6. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

Raffaele Rasso now heads the kitchen at this Michelin Bib Gourmand neighbourhood restaurant, where the early evening menu (€35/€40, Wed-Fri, 5pm-6.30pm) is a bargain. Expect Silverhill duck leg croquettes with fried artichoke, broad bean hummus, chicken thigh with smoked cannellini beans, seabass with kombu gnocchi, and tonka bean panna cotta to finish. CH

Notions at Two Pups

74 Francis Street, Dublin 8; notionsdublin.com
Notions, Francis Street, Dublin 8. Photograph: Alan Betson
Notions, Francis Street, Dublin 8. Photograph: Alan Betson

Usually, we’d slag someone off for having notions in Ireland, but not here. Instead, we’re delighted to see Two Pups cafe on Francis Street transformed after hours into a bistro-style evening restaurant. The casual sharing menu features star suppliers and current Irish menu favourites such as hispi cabbage, oysters, padron peppers and cod roe. Breads come from their own Bold Boy Bakery, and there’s a playful natural wine list. Read our review here. AD

Oliveto

Haddington House Hotel, 9-12 Haddington Terrace, Dún Laoghaire; 01-2801810, haddingtonhouse.ie
Oliveto, Dún Laoghaire
Oliveto, Dún Laoghaire

Nabbing a window seat here is always a treat, with harbour views over Dún Laoghaire. It’s a hotel restaurant, but it feels more like a buzzy local bistro, with an Italian-leaning menu of Lambay crab arancini, scallops in chicken butter sauce, wood-fired meats, seafood, and rich pastas (the pizzas quietly bowed out this summer). The wine list leans Italian too, with plenty offered by the glass or carafe. AD

Rúibín

1-2 Dock Road, Galway, Co Galway; 091-563830, ruibin.ie
Rúibín, Galway
Rúibín, Galway

Rúibín is that rare kind of place where you feel at home from the minute you walk in the door. Maybe it’s the beautiful stone building with even more exposed stone inside. Or maybe it’s the excellent cocktails. Open for lunch, dinner and bar food, Rúibín’s style is contemporary and delicious. Try trout crudo with buttermilk, dill and apple, muscovado-brined pork chop or monkfish fillet with sobrassada butter. JC

Square

6 Market Square, Dundalk, Co Louth; 042-9337969, squarerestaurant.ie
Conor Halpenny in Square, Dundalk
Conor Halpenny in Square, Dundalk

It’s all go at Conor Halpenny’s Square restaurant, which recently nearly doubled in capacity, while its partnership with local An Táin Arts Centre offers good value pre-theatre dining menus. A former Euro-Toque young chef of the year and current Georgina Campbell chef of the year, Halpenny blends classic techniques with modern trends to create dishes such as Square KFC or monkfish with pickled mussels. JC

Union

11 The Mall, Waterford, Co Waterford; 051-574519, unionbar.ie
Sommelier Morgan VanderKamer of Union, Waterford. Photograph: Patrick Browne
Sommelier Morgan VanderKamer of Union, Waterford. Photograph: Patrick Browne

The combination of outstanding modern Irish dishes from chef Stephen McArdle and exceptional wines from his partner and sommelier Morgan VanderKamer is what makes Union wine bar and restaurant so special. Occupying a former pub, the front is cozy and perfect for a glass of wine while the dining room opens up to the rear. With more than 35 wines available by the glass and a tasty bar bites menu, the Déise is calling. JC

Volpe Nera

22 Newtown Park, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 01-2788516, volpenera.ie
A dish from Volpe Nera in Dublin
A dish from Volpe Nera in Dublin

Blackrock residents are spoilt to have this as their local spot. Chef Barry Sun’s modern European cooking with Asian influences (there is usually a delicious dumpling on offer) shows up as colourful plates of food full of texture. There’s great value in their €38 neighbourhood four-course menu on Wednesdays and Thursdays and three-course lunch menu on Fridays and Saturdays. Seasonal aperitifs and an interesting wine list make it all the more special. AD