I first set foot in the Victorian pub on Main Street, Lismore, Co Waterford, in 2012, when it was O’Brien’s Chop House. Justin and Jenny Greene of Ballyvolane House were the people behind it at the time, and Robbie Krawczyk was heading up the kitchen. Across the room, I spotted Matthew Fort, the English food writer and restaurant critic who was looking improbably fresh after a night of West Waterford Food Festival hospitality.
The Chop House closed its doors later that year, and the building remained untouched until Maróg O’Brien, the proprietor of Farmgate in Midleton, snapped it up in 2018. The timing proved fortuitous; five years on, the Midleton restaurant that she had launched in 1983 and runs with her daughter Sally, was wiped out by Storm Babet, leaving the place in ruins. With no flood insurance after the 2023 deluge, the only option was to shut the doors and begin again.
Sally lives in Lismore, and the old pub building seemed like the ideal place for a fresh start under her helm. Farmgate’s long-standing chef, David Doran, and James Ryder, who had joined more recently, were happy to move to the new premises. The floor in the front bar had survived the years of neglect, but damp had consumed the rest of the building, requiring months of renovation. The open kitchen, which had been in the middle of the premises, was moved to the rear, providing a better work space for the chefs and a door to the garden.
The space unfolds beautifully, with the snug and bar counter up front, where diners are seated on high stools, followed by a semi-private room and a larger dining area at the back. Wooden floors and white-panelled walls frame the scene, while a collection of intriguing art – including Michael Quane’s sculptures, one of the few salvaged items from Farmgate Midleton – offers a nod to the past.
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There are six starter and main course options on the menu, sticking to crowd-pleasers such as fish, steak and chicken, with confit duck and braised lamb shank hinting at the shift towards cooler days. Murphys and Moretti are on tap, and the straightforward wine list is well-priced, starting at €29. A bottle of Ciu Ciu Pecorino (€32) pairs nicely with our meal.
Portions verge on the indulgent. The deep-fried calamari (€12) lands on a large plate, each ring cloaked in a whisper-thin batter giving way to tender flesh. It’s served with a tomato-based sauce that lifts the dish with just the right amount of chilli. The chicken liver pâté (€12) is another example of balance. It’s quite intense but the sharpness of the redcurrant jelly adds a snap as you pile it on to sourdough toast. The accompanying salad, dressed green leaves and crunchy pickled cucumber add freshness.
Typically I would not order steak, but the 10oz chargrilled McGrath’s sirloin steak (€38) is a popular dish in the room, so I reckon a good test of the restaurant. It arrives rare as requested and has been well-rested, partnered with onion rings that could double as bracelets and a very good Béarnaise sauce. Side dishes for two are in no short supply either. A mound of garlic and rosemary duck-fat roast potatoes are piled in a bowl in the middle of the table as well as parsley buttered carrots.
Monkfish (€34) is the market fish, the other choice being farmed sea bass, which I’m surprised to see. Four tender pieces of monkfish have been roasted and are served with a leek beurre blanc. With the generous sides, this is another hearty main course.
Dessert (€8) keeps things simple – lemon posset, heavy on the citrus and studded with zest, topped with a buttery piece of shortbread and served with spoons long enough to dive to the bottom of the glass jar. The other options are equally unfussy: apple crumble, chocolate mousse and meringue with strawberries and cream; or you could opt for an Irish cheeseboard for €14.50.
Farmgate in Lismore is a beautiful place to dine, with rooms full of character, a lively buzz and wholesome food served with generosity. The menu favours consistency over spectacle, aiming for dishes that deliver every time rather than ones designed for Instagram.
Already, it feels like it is part of the community, with former Midleton patrons happily making the journey to the restaurant they know and love.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €136.
The verdict A fresh start with old-school charm.
Food provenance Atlantis Seafood, McGrath’s butchers and La Rousse.
Vegetarian options Limited: roast butternut squash and Parmesan risotto.
Wheelchair access Partially accessible room with accessible toilet.
Music Music to watch the girls go by.
